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Trip report March 15-24

Windsor, Canada
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for Eleuthera
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Trip report March 15-24

We just returned from a pleasant 9 nights in Rainbow Bay. We flew American into Miami and then American Eagle into North Eleuthera. The super-ATR is about 65-70 seats compared to the 19 seat Beechcraft that most everyone else uses into Eleuthera, so its a nice ride if you don't like small planes. Connections in Miami were good, the prices were the best I've had into Eleuthera so far (except for the ferry), and the bus into GHB was fine. They are putting tar and chip on the highway through north Eleuthera so most of the potholes are gone.

Everyone you talk with has a different version of why American stopped flying into GHB: equipment upgrades at GHB, lack of fuel, a close call with a Southern Air flight, etc. None of the American staff knew anything.

The weather was good, mid 70's F during the days and mid 60's at night with lots of sun. The only downside this time of year is if you want to stay in the water for long it can get chilly.

We cooked more than we ate out this time, and did not get to Tippy's, Cocodimama, Tapas or Dolce Vita. Had a nice inexpensive lunch at Laughing Lizard, a couple of inexpensive breakfasts at Pina Cafe, and a nice lunch at Sky Beach. Buccaneer Club has changed hands and we could not track down the former owner Lisa. Captain Jack's is closed and for sale, and we did not check on the rumor that Dolce Vita was closing. On our usual day trip to Harbour Island to let my daughter ride on the beach we were too late for lunch at Sip Sip's so we had Italian at Acqua Pazza which was very good and not too expensive.

I did the Ride for Hope while I was there. They have now raised $1,000,000 over the last 5 years on this Eleuthera biking fund raiser. I did the 50 mile version and the hills hurt. Not often you get to bike with a Prime Minister, and hardly andy body quards in sight. Sky Beach hosted the dinner and I do admire their efforts in supporting the community through various events. We went to the ambulance fund raiser there a few months ago and they donated all the food and a free bar. Sky Beach was the hangout for expats on Sunday afternoons the last time we were there, but this time on Sunday we had the place to ourselves. Apparently the new hangout is the newly renovated Bottom Harbour just north of Glass Window Bridge.

I had heard lots of stories about all the new signs for beach access and other things, but the only signs that I was sure were new were the "welcome to Governor's Harbour airport" and "leaving Governor's Harbour airport" signs, which is just about the only place that didn't need a sign.

To repeat the mantra: Eleuthera is not for everyone. The sand flies and mosquitoes were bad, and the pump for town water failed and much of the island was without water about half the time we were there. If you rent a house ask if they have a cistern. Only one power outage which is unusual.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers

Dave

Eleuthera
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1. Re: Trip report March 15-24

Great report, Dave ... congrats on the bike ride, glad you had a good time despite the bugs, etc.

To pick up on a couple of questions ...

Paolo, the chef and co-owner of Dolce Vita, opened a place over in Nassau a few months ago and he's been over there all season. The word is that their 'Lutra lease expires after this season and it's simply unknown if they'll keep the place over here.

The former owner of Buccaneer is rumored to be planning to open a place up near Gregorytown. Stay tuned.

The Sunday afternoon expat action shifts, depending on the restaurant scene. In the GHB-Point area it was Sky Beach for awhile, and before that Cap'n Jack's. Now it's at the Beach House Tapas Bar. Thick as thieves all afternoon there.

Laughing Lizard is indeed a good little lunch spot ... not a huge menu, but they do a nice job with what's on the board every day. They also offer free wi-fi, so visitors can check e-mail while grabbing a snack.

As for the municipal water system -- man, what a cluster-foxtrot that has turned out to be. I hooked into it a year ago and got so tired of it going up and down all the time that I shut off the valve and went back to using my well and cisterns. Unfortunately, one of their worst outages was, as you noted, while all the Ride for Hope people were on the island. If we're lucky, maybe the PM got mad about not being able to shower and will do something about it. (Why do I doubt that? ;-)

Again, great report, hope you're already planning your next trip.

San Miguel de...
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2. Re: Trip report March 15-24

We found the "Beach Access" signs when exploring one day south towards Tarpum Bay and Rock Sound. This being our first trip, we had our beach visits selected in advance (thanks to this forum) but we plan on more exploring on our next visit.

Patrick, South...
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3. Re: Trip report March 15-24

Great Trip report WDave, thank you! Dave A, again a wonderful reply (not that you need me to tell you) thank you also! I have heard Bottom Harbour is also a new hang out, has anyone been there? Wd thanks for the updates on the flights, and you are great for doing the "Ride for Hope" of which i know you have done before. Thanks you guys, this is what Lutra is all about,

i'm counting the days.

newport news
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4. Re: Trip report March 15-24

When you say that the water was out for half the time, do you mean consecutive days or sporadically? Just curious as to what everyone does if the whole island is without water?

Windsor, Canada
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5. Re: Trip report March 15-24

In Rainbow Bay the town water slowed gradually to a trickle and then was out completely for almost three days before coming back for a day and then nothing again for two more days. We heard that a pump at the old naval base had to be replaced. Closer to Governor's Harbour they were not out for as long. Most of our neighbors had cisterns and were offering to let us come over and shower. Of course if the power goes out, which it often does, the people with cisterns are out of water because their pumps won't work and the people with town water are fine. Many houses have both cisterns and town water. We buy drinking water bottles from Lutra Pure so drinking water was still fine for us.

I tried to write a balanced trip report, the good, the bad and the ugly. The people of Eleuthera are the most genuinely friendly people that I have ever met. We love Eleuthera, but if you are put off by power and water outages, biting flies, slow service, poor roads, or the absence of some items in stores, then it's not for you.

MN
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6. Re: Trip report March 15-24

Thank you for all the great information with your trip report!

Edited: 26 March 2010, 14:29
Mobile, Alabama
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7. Re: Trip report March 15-24

WindsorDave-

"If you are put off by the power and water outages, biting flies, slow service, poor roads, or the absence of some things in stores, then it is not for you"

-exactly! And as succinctly put as that is there are still those who go to the out islands then complain about those things and more! For the travelers (as differentiated from "tourists") who go to the out islands with their eyes, minds and hearts wide open and can adjust easily to "island time" and accept what some might think of as a little discomfort as part of a great adventure, there is no place better in the world.

8. Re: Trip report March 15-24

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