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My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

Dublin, Ireland
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My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

Day 5.

Up bright and early again down to Banks road deli for the delicious chocolate danish, and cinnamon roles, back to the house for breakfast and to prepare for another beach trip, I really my time at Rainbow Bay the previous day that I thought I should try Ten Bay this as the sun was high in the sky on another fabulous morning on Eleuthera, so i grab my gear and off i go, before i left Ireland i printed out directions to all he beaches i thought i should really see, i head into Governors Harbor and out the other side on my to Ten Bay it was an easy one to find there is a government beach access sign , drive down the beach track which is bumpy in parts and pull up, there are 3 cars already there walk through the Casuarina trees , and there it is Crystal Clear aqua blue water swaying gently in the breeze, I set myself up on the right side of the beach past the one story house cant recall what it is called but remember checking it on line way back in March. There are two other families there and a few more in the water which is exactly where i went it was so tempting . It was a drop dead gorgeous Sunday morning and i walked out quite a ways in the shallow water, put my snorkel gear on and went exploring I stayed here for a couple trying to cover every inch of this wonderful beach it was just so relaxing here, but i had a busy day planed a lot yet still to see so pack up back in jeep and off to find Double Bay, I remember form an old trip advisor post someone saying to watch out for the electric sub station on your left and then take the road opposite which i did, followed it to the end a paved road not in great shape, and then hung a right onto the beach track, followed that to the beach access, there was a car already I recognized it from a few of the beaches i had visited, there is really only room for one car at the access so i decide to turn round and park at a spot i had just passed only meters away however when i try to do a 360 i get stuck in deep sand wheels spinning and going no were ! Dam ! I get out to have a look and indeed i should nt have reversed the way i did as i went into deep sand , there was some old pieces of timber laying round so i jammed them under the front tires and I am out of that fix in no time, thank god for that , parked up and head over the dune to the beach, a couple there set up under the cabana so i walk down a bit , this is a pretty spectacular beach, having just left ten bay 20 mins ago and now i,am here is quite remarkable I,am beginning to think how many more wonderful beaches are there on this infectious island. There is fantastic snorkeling here a old ship mast protruding from the water and not too far out, the water is once again an indescribable color and calm, this beach has an adventurous feel to it and i walk up and down taking it all in got some good pictures here , another part of a ships pulley stuck in sand , this was another i would have to return too, I head off to lunch Pammys thats also becoming a regular for me and Pam the owner is great very friendly sounds American although i presume not, I notice a lot of the younger Eleutherians speak with American accents and use US slang words , I,am guessing most of the visitors here are probably American due to the close proximity to the southern east coast. After lunch, I think i had spicy chicken wines salad and fries I head towards Gregory Town stopping along the way to give a guy a ride he is from Gregory town and is giving me the low down, I’am heading for Gaulding Cay another Caribbean beach which was on my list of must see beaches. I notice how much greener this place is and i see these big round concrete structures my companion tells me he thinks they for storing food for cattle but couldn't be sure I drop him off in the center of town and wanted to call in to the gift store but its Sunday and its closed, so i keep going and pass the entrance to The Cove the gate is closed , and there is another big wooden gate also closed the landscape along this section is very well kept and has a sort of Captiva island feel to it, I see Daddy Joes ahead and am ready to turn left to the beach access to Gaulding which i miss first time as i too busy checking things out, u turn and get it on second attempt. Now to describe this beach accurately i would first have to describe the kind of day it was ! Magnificent ! a Deep blue sky with puffy white clouds and abundant sunshine, when i get out of my car and walk up to my first look at this beach its ! WoW ! stunning the water is the most amazing color , warm and calm and waist deep for a long way out , I snorkel the cay immediately and some of the small reefs close by , i devour this beach it is so wonderful swimming, walking , snorkeling laying on my back in the water drifting gently along . I take a walk right out in the water around to the adjacent beach I could have probably hit Kravitz beach if i walked further but theres not enough time I am in my element here , is this the perfect beach ? definitely my favorite Caribbean beach so far. After 3 hours or so I;am back in the jeep going towards Glass Window Bridge it’s not far and breath taking I pass it turn round park up and climb the rocks to my left for photo’s , it’s weird to see the high cliffs and crashing waves of the Atlantic and right beside it the clear calm water of the caribbean. Its getting into the afternoon now so i start back the way i came, back to the Rainbow development area and Hidden Beach which i find from my trusted printed directions not what i expected small and quite wavy so i just take some pictures and head over to Rainbow Bay again I want to made a comparison to Gaulding Cay, there is a group of locals having a cookout on the beach i swim and sun bath for a while and then head back ti Governors Harbor, and dinner at Sunset Inn ( I needed a change ) I sit at the bar and and talk to the owner Lionel super nice guy he is the Governor of Governors Harbor he knows the owner of the property I’am staying at they grew up together and he also informs me that i am looking after the place while she’s away he likes the peacefulness of Casuarina Bay and has a keen interest in all the birds around there, i tell about the humming bird in the garden that i get too see every day, I had a conch dish that was very good , and before long it was late and am driving back to the house in the darkness for the first time, that was quite a day 5 beaches , a good bit of driving and some pretty interesting people along the way , this place just keeps getting more intriguing . Does’nt take me long to fall asleep maybe got 1 episode of Breaking Bad....

Day 6

I actually sleep in this morning miss sun rise and don’t get up until after 7.00 am by the time I go down to Buccaneer have breakfast, a large cheese omelette its after 9.00 , i am indecisive this morning Ben Bay Beach I probably should have done it yesterday while i was up that direction , maybe lighthouse beach but i wanted to be more prepared for that , but i realize i only have a day and a half left ! Dam ! how did that that happen. I pack my stuff this time i take a cooler and extra water for my water cooler and head into Governors Harbor, I should mention that all my time here so i’ve had no working phone the land line in the house doesn't work and my cell that has an irish sim card also doesn't work, i tried to get a local sim card over the weekend but no place had them except the phone place across from the gas station that was closed until Monday but it was fun trying , the lady in the gas station sent me to Ronnie's, they sent me to the other supermarket who sent me to Burrows, but its Monday morning now so i pick up a sim at the phone store fill up with gas check all the tyre’s and hit the road for LightHouse Beach it is a beautiful day weather wise again I have been so so luckily with the weather. I have my printed directions and know i’am in for an hour and a half ‘s drive.Coming into Rock Sound I pull up and ask a guy directions to Sammy’s , he’s going that way so i give him a ride i’am at sammy’s early 11.30 but the lady makes me up two lots of ham and cheese sandwiches and i grab a bottle of orange and carrot juice all loaded in to the cooler and back on the road.My directions tell me i have to make a left turn at a road called cotton bay road which i dont see there is a place on the left called Cotton Bay Estates and Villas thats gated so i stop and ask the lady who’s manning it for directions she tells me to head straight into green castle which i do, I am a bit unsure so i call into a connivence store at the end of town and ask directions and it just so happens there is a lady there who is looking for a ride to Bannerman town so off we go , nice lady who explained that the left turn was called something else and not cotton bay road anyway we had great conversation about the area how there is not much doing there any more since the cruise ships only visit for a couple of months out of the year when they should be there year round , she and her husband clean houses go as far as Nassau on occasion, she tells me in busier times in years gone by she would sell crafts make straw hats and set up a stall to sell . In the settlement of John Miller she tells there are only tow people living there one is Jamaican I am blown away by this how ? what do they do ?.I drop her at her house which is right beside the beach access road to LightHouse Beach, at first sight it doesn't look too bad not for long though i hit a pretty bad spot i take it nice and easy maneuvering round the larger holes, it’s get’s ok again and i see a sign for a Teen Camp and a plaque with various bird’s on it, this surprised me as i was under the impression that this was an area that had few visitors anyway i plug on the track gets rough again then very rough it’s hot crawling along I have no air con in this jeep and cant’t go fast enough to catch a breeze keep plugging along i pass a couple of turns off to the left , i wonder where they would lead I was told later to bug infested lakes , the track starts to get better and more sandy and at last i see my first glimpse of the Caribbean i keep driving although there are spots along here that i could park up, in the distance i see a bunch of people in the water maybe 6 or 8 all with snorkel gear on it looks like there getting some kind of lesson not quite sure ! the first two vehicles i see are sedans and the last parking before the sandy hill there are 4 more jeeps , i am surprised I really didn't think there would be too many here but that’s fine with me as i’am on my own gives me a bit of security I guess. I walk over the sand dune wouldn't recommend trying to drive up here way too sandy, walk down the other side and through some bush it actually looks landscaped some how, and i follow a small path that leads to the beach on the Atlantic side i stand in awe looking at whats in front of me I have never seen anything like this ! The color of the water is well indescribable like a 1080 P Full HD Screen Saver , there is maybe like 8 people right at this section all close together i recognize some from other beaches some with young kids, i walk down towards the cliffs pop my stuff down and have a wander round the cliffs on the beach taking pictures i walk towards the water to get a better view of the top of the cliffs and see people up there with what looks a couple of tour guides they have expensive looking cameras maybe there reporting or working for some magazine. There are a few light clouds blowing over head yet i can see the caribbean side is sunny , i find a path that leads up to the Light house and follow it all the way up ! Man ! what a view, getting fussy now about what i photograph as this has to be captured correctly and the light has to be right , i am a bit worried about the clouds there’s more now, i venture into the lighthouse the floor seems unstable so i am careful as i look round the window is there with a view of the ocean great picture and i can see through it that the clouds are no more the whole picture changes so i start snapping away I have a quick look up stairs but don't go all the way up, step back outside and out the corner of my i eye i see a natty looking spider on my chest flick it off before i could blink, this looked like the biting kind high elevated legs and from the brief second i saw it it was a gray black color, that kind of freaked me a bit and i started to get a bit paranoid suddenly the mosquito bit on my foot started to hurt when i walked , maybe it wasn't a mosquito bite but a spider bite, the mind can play tricks , i soon forgot all about this when i started to walk about up there nearly everywhere i looked there was another stunning view , I found a breathtaking little cove just south of where the atlantic meets the caribbean so i fetched my stuff and set up here for now. Got some really great shots from inside caves looking out onto this wide expanse of the most vibrant Turquoise blue water i have ever seen and i have been a few places and seen a few beaches over the year’s , but everything was falling into place nicely i could feel it the sky was turning that deep blue color the clouds in the distance were puffy white in formation I have seen these conditions on a few occasions since i have been in Eleuthera and they make for a spectacular day. There were others around taking shots as well but this place is well big enough for us all. After a hour or so at hanging out at the little cove, which by the way was a marvelous spot for swimming and sunbathing, I moved over to the Atlantic side this was also breathtaking now that the weather conditions were just right , I nearly didn't know where to look every direction there was a special view, i relaxed there just sitting and watching and decided to walk north right up and around the corner just before i rounded the corner i stopped and looked out at the ocean this particular spot was a picture post card , water color the position of the fuffy white cloud the deep blue sky, i only have my iphone with me so i find a half plastic container pop my phone in and head into this picture breaking the waves with a dive, it’s truly magical floating round on my back watching all round i am almost euphorically relaxed and spend some time time here. I take just one photo of this scene as i really dont think it’s possible to capture what i am looking at and experiencing .Eventually i leave and head back to where i have set up on the beach and guess what ? I relax some more, swim and snorkel there are some reefs close to shore with a good selection fish . After another hour or so i grab my stuff and head back over the dune and back to the jeep , there are now 7 vehicles parked all jeeps and i briefly talk to some just getting out who were also surprised by the amount of people and what an experience the beach track was too drive. I drive back a little ways and park up at a nice spot I,am on the Caribbean stretch of beach now and have those sandwiches i got at Sammy's earlier , just sat there under a tree eating and drinking in the shade someone had tied a water bottle to the tree and it had a little rain fall in it a lot probably evaporated . After lunch i went exploring this beach had to cross some rocks to get around the other side ! nice ! I spent another couple of hours here before it was 4.45 pm and decided i had to leave this wonderful place and start the long drive back, again it was hot for my slow crawl back on the beach track and was glad to hit the open road and catch a breeze , stopped in rock sound for a refreshing coke and checked the tyres and it seemed to be pulling to the right a bit , but they were fine as i was getting close i spotted something i was familiar with the beach sign for Ten Bay so i might as well ! in for a swim there was just one other group out in the water, hung there for a while as it was late and the sun was setting the water looked a different color not the transparent turquoise it is during the day.Back in the jeep and off to Buccaneer for dinner , was showing the pics i had taken of lighthouse to all my new friends in the Buccaneer and also a large group of folks fromNorth Carolina who were staying at med point close to were i am staying , nice people and there for the week i think. I got back home about 10 ish and retired after a busy but very enjoyable day on Eleuthera .

Day 7

My last full day. I didn’t want to spend too much time driving and had resigned myself that there were beaches I just was not going to catch on this trip, I am really happy with what i have seen so far and very grateful for the glorious weather i have had all week and what this i hear rumbling in the background ! thunder ! I go out side to check it out and it doesn't look that dark it had been clear earlier when i was watching sun rise so i wasn’t too concerned.I looked at the list of beaches i had written down as must see and notice Twin Beaches in the Rainbow area I had tried to find it before but had the wrong directions with me at the time so decided that was about as far as i would drive i was going to Bank road deli for my breakfast treats when out of the blue it started to pour down , the first tropical shower of my trip I remember these showers on a daily basis when i lived in South West Florida , 20 mins later it was gone sky clearing and off i go for breakfast.Back to the house gather my stuff and i back on the road to Twin Beaches, pretty easy to find take a right off queens highway close to rainbow bay forget what the road is called drive to the t junction go left and then first right, i park up and go to have a look, it looks nice its on cliffs with a lot of boulders around look interesting only cant get down to the better of the two tide is coming in and the other cove doesn't look as good I hunt round for a spot i can descend but no there isn't one, so back in the jeep and over the road to Rainbow Bay I had a lot of fun there again the weather is spectacular and i do a lot of snorkeling and just laying around.I go back to Governors Harbor and Pammys for lunch after which i try the beach South of Tippys it’s nice there again ! man ! every beach is so dam nice its hard to leave any but i do and go up to Twin Coves to have a look it’s late in the evening and quite windy there so i potter around a bit walk the beach there is a lot of stuff there today plastic, timber, I,d say when there is a high tide the way these coves are positioned stuff gets deposited easily. Back to Buccaneer for dinner there all telling i need to stay longer and i wish i could. I had very tasty grouper rice and peas , salad and back home.

Day 8

Last half day on the island, i have really enjoyed all i have seen and done on this trip it really couldn't have gone any better, up at sun rise coffee in hand and take a walk around the property i have been staying at and very happy i chose the round house it suited me well was very comfortable, fitted in very much with the surrounding area, a true Caribbean style cottage with lovely gardens, beach cabanas , hammocks , kayaks which i forgot to mention where a lot of fun and i probably should have used a lot more ! and Scot and his son Adrian they were around most days doing work around the place had to cut down some very high tree limbs from a pine tree that was leaning over the roof in preparation for the hurricane season which so far has been quite this season. So last tasty danishes and cinnamon roles for breakfast gathered all my stuff together for my departure later and head off to French Leave Beach at The Beach House and as luck would have it another one of those exceptional days is starting to form it’s kind of strange but you can feel it when the weather changes to these conditions Deep Blue Sky, Puffy Clouds and abundant sunshine and by the time all this takes hold the water is ! Well ! just like a screen saver. There is a few other people about this morning , I parked at The Beach House and spoke to the waitress for a while , set up on the beach and off i am in the water some snorkeling , swimming laying in the sun, it’s so nice the same kind of weather i had on light house and on at least 3 other occasions , I am making the most of this lapping it all in. For lunch i go up to the beach house and have the spicy shrimp, and a Frozen Mango drink, bar tender here did’nt have a problem making it without alcohol as they did at Tippys. This is where it all started for me in Eleuthera at the Beach House for lunch the day i arrived and now back here on my last afternoon and not planned just seemed to happen this way.I spend my last hour or so on this wonderful beach keep going in the water just for one last swim in this glorious warm water, but if i leave it any longer now i will be late for my flight, so dash back to the house pack the rest of my stuff one last check around the place gave Scott the reggae cd i burned at home and brought he was grateful , he plays in a local band and was enjoying listen when ever i was at the house playing it . My last drive down the beach track running along French Leave Beach, my favorite drive on Eleuthera into Governors Harbor looking around everywhere for the last time and head for the airport. When its our turn to board the Southern Air flight to Nassau I am greeted by Lionel owner of sunset inn and Governors Harbor, we shake hands , he thanks me for coming and tells me to hurry back which i definitely plan too. When we landed in Nassau I had a 5 hour wait for my BA flight to Heathrow so i jumped in a cab and headed to Compass Point where i had a nice leisurely dinner, they were ultra friendly there I had dinner at the bar and then moved to these very comfortable out side couches for desert, and before i know it i,am in Heathrow airport trying to find a Wifi signal on my ipad to send Doon and Taja a thank you email for my time on The Wonderful Island That Is Eleuthera...................

Westfield...
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1. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

Don, like many of us, you are now hooked for life! Great trip report. We'll be there in February again for 18 days.

Albany, New York
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2. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

WONDERFUL!!!! I cant wait to see all of your pictures!! Thank you so much for the very detailed report. It sounds like you had a perfect time!!!

Dublin, Ireland
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3. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

I really did have such i great time , trying to up load photos now via Flickr seems to be quite slow though .

Tallahassee, Florida
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4. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

All I can say is... thank you!!! :)

Elizabethtown...
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5. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

Great trip report! Could remember having the same impressions of different beaches that you expressed. Can't wait to see the pics!!! We ONLY have 15 months before we get to return and it's going to take alot of great trip reports like yours and pictures to help us make it through them.

Dublin, Ireland
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6. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

Hopefully Pics will be up soon, I must have taken 500 but just uploading 145 for now. Glad you liked the report It was nice to relive the moments while writing it

New York City, New...
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7. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

loved every moment of your post thank you!

Toronto, Ontario
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8. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

Awesome trip report, looking forward to seeing the photos!

Dallas, Texas
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9. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

Great Trip Report!

toronto
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10. Re: My Eleuthera Experience : Days 5/8

Don, Thank you for your Eleuthera review, you were certainly on the move. Per chance are you a friend of Bill W. Cheers Dan

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