Had a great time last week in Tulum, not ready to be home yet! Stayed 5 nights at Coco then two nights at Ahau, great way to balance the budget and I love both properties. Saw tons of mama turtles--a dozen on one night alone when I walked from La Zebra back to Coco, that was crazy!
Had some great food, too. After a sort of so-so food trip last time, I was really happy to have so many "OMG" moments in that first bite (come on, you know what I mean!). Restaurants shift and change all the time, so your mileage may vary, but I wish I could go back tomorrow so I could eat all of these again: Top piece of fish was at Simple--a white bass (can't remember the Spanish name, something with a 'c' and it's from the Sea of Cortez) grilled by the owner. Wow, perfect. Best sauce: the diabla at Ahau--I had mahi mahi diablo (diabla?) and I was worried it would be too hot but Chef Roberto assured me otherwise so I went for it. What fantastic flavor, a little heat but you could taste each of the ingredients all melded together. Outstanding meal overall (he does a mean tuna tartare as well).
Favorite breakfast is Eggs Ahau, especially with a side of their excellent goat cheese. Followed by the green chilaquiles at Playa Azul, which they also serve with goat cheese (I'm really not a goat cheese fetishist, this is a coincidence). Favorite lunch is the steak nachos at La Luna (Restaurant Las Estrellas at La Luna), with a few more margaritas than strictly necessary since La Luna makes some of the best. I never eat nachos here in the US (or anywhere else in Mexico, for that matter), but these are a must-have every trip.
I also loved the shrimp tacos at Om, the goat-cheese-stuffed piquillo peppers at Om (what is it with goat cheese?), the shrimp tacos at Ahau (actually, the pineapple salsa thing that came with them), and the pizza at Juanita Diavola (the new roadside restaurant at Coco). Had a great pasta carbonara at Zamas and they have a new margarita there called Izzy's Margarita. It has both tequila and mescal and is served without salt (I don't like sal on my margs anyway) and it's large and powerful but not over the top. I really liked it. Lalo, the manager, told me it was a recipe they got from one of the visiting chefs they've had coming in from time to time. I think it was 110 pesos but well worth it IMO.
Another great drink was at Simple, a guava (guayaba) margarita, served with a sprinkling of Tajin on top (a salt/chile/lime spice mix that I love anyway). And definitely try the owner's family's tequila--I'm not usually a big fan of straight tequila but this stuff is pretty darned good--next time I'm going to buy a bottle and bring it home.
OK, that just turned into a food report, but I really didn't do much more than enjoy my rooms and walk up and down the beach visiting friends and eating! :-)