I'm trying to determine the best town/village to use as a base for five nights in the Upper Engadine and five nights in the Lower Engadine; the more research I do, the more confused I get.
I'm looking for peace and quiet, charm and relative convenience to train/bus transport; I'm not interested in St Mortiz and I'm unsure about Pontresina, which I've read is busy and charmless (?)
This is not a ski trip - we hope to do some winter hiking, take the Bernina Pass train and just generally explore the area. Our strategy is to visit the Upper Engadine first, (early December) before ski season gets fully underway. I realize this means gondola and ski lift closures and limited operating hours of those that are open, but we're good with that. We're traveling by train, so I'm leaning towards a town on a train line as it seems bus service that time of year is infrequent.
I've found a possible apartment rental in Sils Maria, but I have concerns as the bus from St Moritz to Sils Maria only runs every two hours. (Anyone happen to know the walking distance?)
Opinions and insights appreciated.