I would like to preface my trip report with a big thank you to all the locals, experts, and regulars who so patiently answered all my questions as I did my research. This trip was 9 months in the making. Dreaming of this trip was my #happyplace for so long I'm rather at loose ends now. Reliving it through the VERY detailed trip report I'm writing is my consolation for now.
Thank you in advance to anyone who has the patience to muddle through this account.