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Trip Report - One Week in Nuremberg (Long)

MA
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for New England
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Trip Report - One Week in Nuremberg (Long)

We recently returned from a week in Nuremberg due to a conference my spouse had to attend. While he was working, our 9 y.o. and I toured around. We stayed at the Hotel am Josefsplatz, which was centrally located for us and for the UBahn to the Messe. We had a comfortable 3 room apartment and the hotel offered a huge, free buffet breakfast every morning.

On Sunday morning, we went to Mass at Frauenkirche, as it was on our list of things to see and there really is not much to do in the Altstadt on a Sunday morning. We had to buy water at McDonalds because there were not even any small shops open. It was a very relaxed way to start the trip, experiencing Mass in German and being able to sit and look around at all the art.

We then went on the Walking tour in English which leaves daily at 13:00 from the Hauptmarkt TI. It cost 10 euros for me and kid was

free. The walk was about 2 hours and ended at the Kaiserburg, where for 2 euros extra, the very personable guide would take you on an abbreviated inside tour of the castle. Otherwise, the castle tours are in German. It was well worth it and included the Deep Well tour as well as the castle museum (good if you are into old weapons and armaments, otherwise not so much).

On Monday, lots of museums were closed so we walked around St. Lorenz to look at the art inside and then had a walk around the fruit

and veg stalls at Hauptmarkt, bought some food and supplies at Aldi,

checked out the touristy faux market by the train station (not very popular) and then spent a couple hours shopping. I bought a

Nuremberg card at the TI, which was a great deal as it included

museum admissions and public transport for 2 days and my son got a card for free ( as he is under 11).

On Tuesday, we visited the Germanische National Museum and

spent a few hours there. We were lucky to be able to see the special

Albrecht Durer exhibit. I also enjoyed the costume room and my son enjoyed the armor and weaponry room. Unfortunately, the entire floor

on the 20th century was closed for refurbishment. However, that allowed us to leave in time to walk over and take the medieval dungeon tour, which my son begged me to visit. The tour was in

German, but I was able to translate bits and pieces for him and the guide spoke a bit of English too. Some of the things she explained

were pretty gruesome, so I was glad he couldn't understand. It was

dark, chilly and just very sad.

Wednesday started on a happier note and we went to the Toy

Museum, which is a lovely little museum with a pretty cafe in the

courtyard and an outdoor playground, which was great for running

around and climbing. The museum also has a playroom for kids on

the top floor, with games, toys, etc. Oddly, there weren't any kids there, only adults! I was fascinated by the elaborate old dollhouses and play kitchens. Kid liked the touch screen computers showing

demonstrations of how the old wind-up tin toys worked.

In the afternoon we took the UBahn to the Documentation Center and

Rally Grounds, which turned out to be quite a looong walk on a hot day from the UBahn station (take the tram instead) but we found it.

Unfortunately, several busloads of tourists arrived at the same time

we did and the exhibit became quite crowded and loud. I was afraid my son would be bored as the museum is mainly lots of reading about history on display boards and listening to the taped narration,

but he is a huge history buff and he was interested, so it took us

almost two hours to view the whole exhibit. At the end, you walk outside on a bridge into the courtyard of the unfinished horseshoe-shaped rally building, which was unexpected. We then walked through the park and around the lake to the Zeppelin

Field. It was an interesting mix of the old, crumbling (literally) structures from the past and the new (preparations on the field for a car race sponsored by Nestle). We walked back and stopped at the Gutmann beer garden on the edge of the park for dinner.

Our next and last day, we took a train to Dachau. We were hesitant to go with our son, but decided to take turns visiting the buildings while

the other parent waited outside with him. We did let him see a bit of

the beginning of the museum, explaining Hitler's rise to power, but

that was it. I think that ghosts must not exist, because if anyplace

were to be haunted, this would be it.

On a lighter note, we returned to Nuremberg and as it was the

evening of the Germany/Italy match, we wandered around trying to find somewhere to eat outside and watch the game. At Bahama Bar,

some nice people let us share their table while we had dinner and

watched the game until it started to rain. Next day, off to Italy for a week.

Lots of thanks to all the people here who answered my many, many

questions over the last six months. Someone here suggested the Eis

Cafe for gelato and that became my son's second home for the week

as he fell in love with the tiramisu gelato and had to have it every

day. I refreshed my long-forgotten German for this trip and found it to

be helpful, especially out of the tourist centers. We had a great time!

Nestle

Edited: 10 July 2012, 16:06
Hauptmarkt
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Kathe Wohlfahrt
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Cocoa Beach, Florida
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1. Re: Trip Report - One Week in Nuremberg (Long)

I enjoyed reading your trip report.

Two questions, please.

What program did you use to refresh your German? I was fluent in college and get around fairly well when we visit but would like to make more of an effort for our return trip this year.

How long did you allow to visit Dachau, including travel? I have been once but my husband never has and I would to take him when we are in Nuremberg.

Thanks.

MA
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for New England
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2. Re: Trip Report - One Week in Nuremberg (Long)

Hi - To refresh my German, I bought a teach yourself German book and borrowed language CDs from my local library. I studied it on and off for about four months and the basics came back pretty quickly. My goal was really to just have enough German to read a menu, order food and communicate in a store or ask for directions. Dachau was about 4 1/2 hours roundtrip on the train and another 10 minutes each way on the bus from the train station. We took about 3 hours to tour the camp, so it was a long day. There are many ways to get to Dachau by train. We traveled on a Bayern Ticket, which was the cheapest way for the 3 of us to go, but it meant we had to use only Regional trains, which made our journey longer.

Adelaide, Australia
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3. Re: Trip Report - One Week in Nuremberg (Long)

very informative report, thank you.

4. Re: Trip Report - One Week in Nuremberg (Long)

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