We recently returned from a week in Nuremberg due to a conference my spouse had to attend. While he was working, our 9 y.o. and I toured around. We stayed at the Hotel am Josefsplatz, which was centrally located for us and for the UBahn to the Messe. We had a comfortable 3 room apartment and the hotel offered a huge, free buffet breakfast every morning.
On Sunday morning, we went to Mass at Frauenkirche, as it was on our list of things to see and there really is not much to do in the Altstadt on a Sunday morning. We had to buy water at McDonalds because there were not even any small shops open. It was a very relaxed way to start the trip, experiencing Mass in German and being able to sit and look around at all the art.
We then went on the Walking tour in English which leaves daily at 13:00 from the Hauptmarkt TI. It cost 10 euros for me and kid was
free. The walk was about 2 hours and ended at the Kaiserburg, where for 2 euros extra, the very personable guide would take you on an abbreviated inside tour of the castle. Otherwise, the castle tours are in German. It was well worth it and included the Deep Well tour as well as the castle museum (good if you are into old weapons and armaments, otherwise not so much).
On Monday, lots of museums were closed so we walked around St. Lorenz to look at the art inside and then had a walk around the fruit
and veg stalls at Hauptmarkt, bought some food and supplies at Aldi,
checked out the touristy faux market by the train station (not very popular) and then spent a couple hours shopping. I bought a
Nuremberg card at the TI, which was a great deal as it included
museum admissions and public transport for 2 days and my son got a card for free ( as he is under 11).
On Tuesday, we visited the Germanische National Museum and
spent a few hours there. We were lucky to be able to see the special
Albrecht Durer exhibit. I also enjoyed the costume room and my son enjoyed the armor and weaponry room. Unfortunately, the entire floor
on the 20th century was closed for refurbishment. However, that allowed us to leave in time to walk over and take the medieval dungeon tour, which my son begged me to visit. The tour was in
German, but I was able to translate bits and pieces for him and the guide spoke a bit of English too. Some of the things she explained
were pretty gruesome, so I was glad he couldn't understand. It was
dark, chilly and just very sad.
Wednesday started on a happier note and we went to the Toy
Museum, which is a lovely little museum with a pretty cafe in the
courtyard and an outdoor playground, which was great for running
around and climbing. The museum also has a playroom for kids on
the top floor, with games, toys, etc. Oddly, there weren't any kids there, only adults! I was fascinated by the elaborate old dollhouses and play kitchens. Kid liked the touch screen computers showing
demonstrations of how the old wind-up tin toys worked.
In the afternoon we took the UBahn to the Documentation Center and
Rally Grounds, which turned out to be quite a looong walk on a hot day from the UBahn station (take the tram instead) but we found it.
Unfortunately, several busloads of tourists arrived at the same time
we did and the exhibit became quite crowded and loud. I was afraid my son would be bored as the museum is mainly lots of reading about history on display boards and listening to the taped narration,
but he is a huge history buff and he was interested, so it took us
almost two hours to view the whole exhibit. At the end, you walk outside on a bridge into the courtyard of the unfinished horseshoe-shaped rally building, which was unexpected. We then walked through the park and around the lake to the Zeppelin
Field. It was an interesting mix of the old, crumbling (literally) structures from the past and the new (preparations on the field for a car race sponsored by Nestle). We walked back and stopped at the Gutmann beer garden on the edge of the park for dinner.
Our next and last day, we took a train to Dachau. We were hesitant to go with our son, but decided to take turns visiting the buildings while
the other parent waited outside with him. We did let him see a bit of
the beginning of the museum, explaining Hitler's rise to power, but
that was it. I think that ghosts must not exist, because if anyplace
were to be haunted, this would be it.
On a lighter note, we returned to Nuremberg and as it was the
evening of the Germany/Italy match, we wandered around trying to find somewhere to eat outside and watch the game. At Bahama Bar,
some nice people let us share their table while we had dinner and
watched the game until it started to rain. Next day, off to Italy for a week.
Lots of thanks to all the people here who answered my many, many
questions over the last six months. Someone here suggested the Eis
Cafe for gelato and that became my son's second home for the week
as he fell in love with the tiramisu gelato and had to have it every
day. I refreshed my long-forgotten German for this trip and found it to
be helpful, especially out of the tourist centers. We had a great time!
NestleEdited: 10 July 2012, 16:06