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Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

Norwich, United...
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Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

....with a little advice and info:

Another two Brits and I went over to Procida in late July - which proved to be a bit rash as it was debilitatingly hot and we didn't manage to do nearly as much as I have on other visits.

Things started well, we caught the 9.45 SNAV hydrofoil from Ischia's second port, Casamicciola, and got there by 10.

That's definitely the crossing to aim for - the next (a Caremar ship from Ischia Porto at 11.20) doesn't leave you long to see the Abbey before it shuts.

Our first stop was the newstand by the ferry ticket offices, for bus tickets, which cost 80 cents for a single ride, or 1 Euro for those with an hour's validity. Tickets from Ischia, and everywhere else, don't work here!

You need to guess how many you'll want for the day, or search around for more later - but you can pay 1.10 Euro to the driver instead! Details: eavbus.it/opencms/eavbus/tariffe/procida.html

The summer timetable (says 2008, but it worked for us) for the EAVBUS services (not SEPSA now) is here:

eavbus.it/export/…Estivo_01-07-08_Procida.pdf

After a - slow - walk along the harbourside, we caught the extraordinaryly skinny C1 bus at 10.30 and were soon up in the Terra Murata having a cooling drink at the little bar near Half Man's Gate after a ride which never fails to amaze me.

The former orphanage wasn't open but we spent a fair while in the Abbey, where they had a very unusual display - gold and silver religious items that had been stolen during a breakin there earlier in the year, which have recently been recovered thanks to a combined effort by all the local law enforcement agencies. Now I'm generally a cynic, but I couldn't stop a bit of a lump developing in the throat when I read the notice and saw the sad state in which those beautiful objects had ended up.

As it was so **** hot we took only a short and very slow stroll through the streets up there before walking back down and through the fortified gateway to where several large canons stand on the belvedere, commandingly above the fishing harbour, and taking our photos of the magnificent view. Heading for the shade, we descended to the big yellow church where we stopped again, this time for more sustenance at the bar there!

(When cooler it's a nice walk down to the harbour there, where many scenes from both Ripley and 'Il Postino' were filmed, and several excellent restaurants serve wonderful fish dishes - of course - except at lunchtimes in the hottest months as then it's like a furnace.)

Instead we scooted off to catch the next bus down to the main beach at the far end of the island - which faces over to Ischia - from where we walked round to the little tourist harbour, passing the restored and converted tonneria - now a hotel. We stopped at the fine restaurant Crescenzo, where we were served by two young men with excellent English, and ate very well indeed!

http://www.hotelcrescenzo.it/

And, to tell the truth, after that all we managed to do was walk back up the hill as far as the first bus stop, and slope off back to Ischia on the next Caremar ship - at about 3.30.

Usually we've taken another bus to the other side of the island and done a bit more walking, or stopped off somewhere near the centre, but that was enough, we were too pooped for icecream!

And on some occasions we've also done the island tour by taxi - which has worked out at 7 or 8 Euro each, with a minimum of about 30 Euro although it may be a bit dearer now?

It seems a well-established route, used by many of the drivers at similar rates, that includes a trip up to the Abbey with time for a look around, before you're off on a journey through the lemon groves of the backroads to see several other pretty places, and it's actually quite difficult to do any other way! Just seemed like it might have been pricey for three of us - but perhaps we should have splashed out?

You'll find a mix of pictures - some old favourites and a few new ones - here: http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/procida1

Peter

Hagerstown, Maryland
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1. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

Fine trip report Peter, thanks for sharing. Great photos too.

I somehow missed the church of Saint Michael Archangel when I visited Procida. From your photos it looks like a fascinating old place.

I was really intrigued by the old prison...

flickr.com/photos/…

I remember noticing that parts of it appeared to have been converted to apartments.

And of course the view of Corricella from up on the hill is just spectacular!

Island of Hawaii...
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2. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

Hi Peter,

This write-up brings back fond memories of Procida.

I didn't have the patience to wait for the bus, so I walked all over the island; yes, Marina Grande to Corricella, to Chiaiollela,... I didn't enjoy walking along the very narrow streets with the cars zooming past 50 cm away from me at 50 km/hr. It was my fault for not taking the bus. I was there in Jun/July, probably not as hot as when you were there, but it was very humid. Twice, after the long walks, I was hoping to take a dip in the hotel pool, but only to find out that the hotels has rented the pool area one day to a baptism, and another day to a wedding party. So all I could do was look out the balcony and enjoy the view of Ischia!

Island of Hawaii...
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3. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

Pardon me if I sounded negative. I actually enjoyed Procida very much, and would return in a heart beat. It was my favorite place of the entire trip.

And of course the sing-along at the restaurant Arancia in Ischia!

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4. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

jjkdc

Thanks - it's something I'd meant to do sooner, but didn't!

Funny how people don't always see the same things - it took me ages to work out where that shot of yours was taken, but I think it's the front of this building?

www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/116462984

There are no nice new apartments within the old jail building - lots of redevelopment talk, possibly a hotel complex etc etc, but when you get a close look at the structure you see it would need total reconstruction.

Some of the old guard houses and officers residences are still lived in - they say by former employees or their families, descendants etc. It wasn't so very long ago that the last of the prisoners were released and no one has had the heart, the need or the inclination to get them out as yet - but I've no idea if they're squatting or are actually tenants of the government?

You'll have to come back to see the rest of the island!

Peter

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5. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

vteotl,

Hi, and nice to hear from you!

Yes, there's something special about the dangers of the road here, isn't there? Sure keeps the adrenalin flowing.

I think they lay on more buses in the season - there are separate summer and winter timetables on the EAVBUS site.

Procida was our introduction to the Naples area but in coming in the third week of May in 2001 we were still a littleearly, and almost the only tourists on the island. We ate alone, trying different restaurants for three or four evenings, and then fled across to Puglia - much of which wasn't a lot busier until suddenly on June 1st there were no rooms in town, and we had to come back to Ischia. And we all know where and what that led to!

Glad to have triggered some good memories,

Peter

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6. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

I met 2 lovely couples from Naples while I was in Procida. I'm hoping to visit them next year. And I'll try to make it to Procida agin, even if it's only for a night. There's a hotel I'd like to stay, right in Corricella. There, I'll wake up to the postcard view every morning. And there's no need for me to walk all over the island. I've found my fav restaurant in Corricella, (after a dozen times, I'm finally successful in imitating the seafood spaghetti I had there), and from there I can easily walk to Marina Grande when'if I'm bored with the view from my room.

That's my plan.

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7. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

Indeed, I'm almost positive my shot was the front of that building. I recognize that tiny church on the left, and it was very close to the "look out" point over Corricella.

I'm coming back to Naples for a few days in a couple of months. Probably won't make it to Procida though. I do plan to get out to Ischia though, mainly to see the big castle there. I've admired many beautiful photos of that, and just have to get some of my own.

Island of Hawaii...
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8. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

Oh, Peter, when you went to Puglia in 2001, did you by any chance go to Calabria?

I'm planning on going there next year, and trying to get info on public transportation. There's not much info in the Calabria forum.

Did you I tell you that from my room in Ischia, I could see Procida, and vice versa. What a coincidence!

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9. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

vteotl,

Sorry but Calabria's very much a closed book to me - we've been straight through it on the train to Sicily but didn't stop at all.

All I can tell you is very disjointed stuff. They ran a big ad campaign on the TV, led by footballer Gennaro Gattuso, which made it look very nice indeed. The Crotone tourist board came here one year and we got some enticing leaflets from them. Tropea looks lovely, and I'd like to see the bronze statues at the museum in Reggio.

Not much help, was I?

Peter

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10. Re: Visiting Procida from Ischia - a Trip Report....

Yes, not much help. :-)

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