First of all, we discovered that Ischia is pronounced ‘EEs skiah’ with the emphasis on the first syllable. (and Procida is pronounced ‘PRO cheeda’, with again the emphasis on the first syllable.)
Our day trip to Ischia started in Sorrento, catching the once-a-day ferry at 9:30 AM (€16 each). The ride took just under an hour. We sat outside and the ride was a bit chilly but sunny. Once in the port, we immediately took a local bus down to the little village of Sant’ Angelo (€1.7 each). We enjoyed the scenery and the many local people who got on and off the bus during the 45 minute ride. There is probably a faster bus but we liked this one. The bus stops up on the road above Sant’ Angelo so there is about a ¾ mile walk down a nicely paved road to the actual harbor. We had a little local wine at Ristorante Il Pescatore after the long morning of travel.
Next we took a small boat (€3 each) from harbor for a 1 mile ride over to a section of beach called Cava Scura. The short ride was entertaining once we discovered that the boat driver had lived in the US and spoke better English that he first let on. The boat was beached and we hopped off. We then walked from the water, across the pebbly beach and followed a little stream toward the cliffs about 300 yards. There we found the restaurant that a friend in Sorrento had recommended – Ristorante Stalino. This little place has maybe ten tables and is tucked back up in a cave opening and is run by a friendly couple. He waits tables and she does the cooking. The menu is in Italian and German only. We ordered the brochette (huge and delicious), pasta with clams, the fruita de mare salad (super good) and ½ liter of the house white wine (no wine list. It is either Red or White). The check came to just €24. I know this is a lot of traveling for a nice lunch but we thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience.
We walked back to the beach and headed west back toward Sant’ Angelo. We found lots of sea glass on the way. Much prized in the US, the ease with which you find it was quite a surprise to us.
We were walking up many of the “golf cart only” streets and found ourselves at Aphrodite Apollon Sea Resort and Spa. We had taken our swim suits just for this possibility. For €6 each, we spent a luxurious hour in the many soothing hot pools – the waterfall was my favorite spot to sit and let the warm water flow over you. Gorgeous views out over the sea.
We finished our walk back to the taxi stand at Sant’ Angelo and hired a driver to take us back to the main harbor (€40) because we were pressed for time. The ride took only 20 minutes and we made the once-a-day 5:20 PM return ferry to Sorrento.
As you can tell, we had a specific objective in mind so our next trip to Ischia will be spent exploring more of this lovely island.Edited: 07 June 2010, 17:28