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My trip to Napoli

florida
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My trip to Napoli

Okay,

I went to Napoli from April 27 til May 4th and here is what we did:

27th Drove down from Roma in a rental car, stayed at Hotel Mediterreaneo downtown, shook off jet lag, walked on via roma, and ate at some place on Medina

28th Woke up and went to Capri from Molo Beverello - all day. Took the Aliscarfi to port of Capri, then took Funicalari to town of Capri (very beautiful), then hired a taxi who took us to Piccola Mare (Rocks) for 30 minutes and then onto Anacapri for 2 hours and then back to the port for 50 Euro (was a good deal). At Anacapri, went up Monte Solarno on chairlift, drank wine on the top of the mountain (what a view) and almost fell asleep coming down the lift.

29th Drove in Rental car to Vietri su Mare - very beautiful, cought a lot of ceramics and had a nice time. Drove south on the amalfi coast to Majori for lunch. Then drove to Ravello for the afternoon in the town and villa Cimbrano...just awesome. Drove back to Napoli over mountain via Angri to autostrada.

30th Drove to Pozzouli and had lunch. very nice and away from Napoli. Then went to Solfatara the vulcano, the colleseum, Baia/Bacoli, Arch Felice, and Cuma. Cuma was awesome greek/Roman ruins. Then drove up the coast to Penetamare and ate dinner, saw my old villa in Varcaturo on the way back to Napoli via the tangenziale that night. Wife had a cheap purse snatched on Via Roma that night. Lost no money but she was upset.

1st Went to Ischia and rented a moped for the whole day and we rode double. Had a great time and drove around the entire island. Recommend Posidien beach for a few hours of hot baths.

2nd Hung out in Napoli all day and evening. Went shopping on via Roma and Via Chiaia. Had a nice day.

3rd Did the hydrofoli back to Capri again and pretty much did the same itinerary as our first visit. We love Capri...and yes went back to the top of Monte Solarno on the chairlift again.

4th Woke up and drove to Roma early in the morning. Checked into a Marriott Courtyard near the Airport and dropped off luggage and then drove to the Colleseum/Forum/old Rome area and took a very long walk. It was a nice stroll through history and took 3 hours. Then got back into the car and drove to St. Peter's Basilica. Very heavenly. Drove back to hotel and ate dinner in a little beach Marina town called Fiumacino - very nice.

5th Woke up and flew back to Florida

Pros:

Great Food

Great Wine

Beautiful Views from islands and mountains.

Beautiful preserved historic sites

Italian came back to me by the end of the week

Cons:

Purse snatch

Driving was very hard but I did not have one scratch on my car rental - unbelievable. I would rent another car cause it allows you to be spontaneous.

Expensive - the dollar does not go very far.

Hotel A/C did not work. The view was awsome though

The town looked a lot like it did 20 years ago. A little more cleaned up - but not much. Agnano and Bagnoli were the pits - just like they were 20 years ago and I cannot believe I worked there for 4 years.

By the end of the week - my Neopolatan Intalian was coming together and it was fun - but a lot of work - to speak continuous Italian. Overall we had a great time. Next time I do not think I will stay downtown Napoli. Mabee Pozzuoli, or on Ishica or Capri. But I am not disappointed that I did stay in Napoli cause it was a rush.

Fuorigrotta...
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1. Re: My trip to Napoli

Dear getaround

Sorry i didn't reply until now - i'm glad you had a good trip and sorry about the bag snatch...all too common (although touch wood or iron as they do here - i now do both as i've turned all superstitious in my old age - it's not happened to me but i'm very cautious, which is wearing in itself...)

funny talking about how grotty bagnoli is - cos i live directly opposite the italsida plant, with a glimpse of Mount Epomeo on ischia just beyond...work is happening there but slowly. They're "racing" now (like a limping greyhound) cos if they don't finish the work within a couple of years they have to pay back the EU all the funds injected over the last decade or so...panic-stricken! We noticed the other day they'd built a little metal platform inside one of the gates on via diocleziano with one of those pay for view telescopes - very weird - to make people pay to see a giant ex steel factory even closer up when it's SO in your face already! Piano piano as they say here...things WILL change eventually.

Did you try a shekerato?

I've never done the mont solare funiculare cos i get vertigo and that rattly wee chairlift just doesn't grab me...if they were two seaters i might just manage it but on my own i get the temptation to jump and get little panic attacks! (i used to love skiing now it's fraught with problems...i developed vertigo late in life (i'm 35!))

naples will never really change - maybe the transport system will get better but that's about it - it's cleaner than it was would you believe! Crime will hopefully die down and tourism will be embraced more - it's in the interest of the people who need work - but i would hate naples to dilute its personality and become like another big italian tourist resort. being a tourist in naples is still quite pioneering, which is part of its charm. The beaten track here is so very unbeaten compared to so many other places in italy...

i trust you'll be back again?

Ontario,Canada
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2. Re: My trip to Napoli

Sounds like you had a fabulous trip !!!

May I ask...we arrive via cruise ship into Naples on All Saints Day,Nov.1st.We are thinking of renting a car and driving to Positano.With the holiday,the only rental open is at the Naples Airport.My Mapquest is not being helpful !!!!

I assume we would need to take a taxi to and from the airport...right ??

And then come back to the port,pick others up and head off.Are we crazy to think of doing this ????

Suggestions welcome !!

CRUISELADY

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3. Re: My trip to Napoli

Please elaborate on the purse snatch...

florida
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4. Re: My trip to Napoli

I think if you want to rent a car and go to Positano, it would be fun but you would have to kind of hurry up your day depending on when your ship leaves. It seems like you could do it and it would be worth the hassle but I would ask Mozz Girl about this. I know she does not like cars but you could do it if you do not mind spending some money (100 Euro for taxis and car) and hurrying a little bit.

The purse snatch:

We were walking down Via Roma and of course there are little streets that criss cross via Roma. Two guys on a Moped crossed the street behind us and the guy on the back grabbed my wifes arm and pulled it away from her body allowing the purse and strap to fall straight down. It was then an easy pick off for the jerk. and it hurt her arm for a while.

The purse was a fake Prada haha

nothing in it but lipstick and a compact and a hair clippy. I am glad she listened to me and put nothing valuable in it.

Fuorigrotta...
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5. Re: My trip to Napoli

cruiselady,

are you sure the only hire companies open are at the airport that day? - there's europcar and avis on via santa lucia and via partenope - if you go to www.gesac.it (naples' airport website) and go to airport services you link to all the hirecar websites.

i have no problem with driving - as long as i'm not doing it!!!! get a good night's sleep beforehand and be clear about your route - viamichelin.com is a good website to plan with (though it can make things much more complicated than needs be). City driving is fraught; motorway driving - they changes lanes without signals and overlap happily - drive between two cars as the lanes are so wide - and the amalfi coast is torturously curvy and narrow. Give yourself plenty of time to get back and return the car...only you can decide if it's a good idea or not!!!! You could alternatively get a boat from the port of beverello to positano if they're running - check the website www.metrodelmare.com

good luck!!!

MG

PS getaround - i'm so sorry for your wife - even if nothing valuable was taken, it sounds very unpleasant...

florida
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6. Re: My trip to Napoli

We will be back every 3 or 4 years. Napoli and everything around it is just a magnet to me and part of who I am and has had an impact on me and the way I deal with people and life.

I was fun and I miss it.

MozzGirl, you took the fear out of returning and I appreciate all your pre and post trip discussion. I veiw this forum and you really do help out so many people who just want to understand and have fun.

Fuorigrotta...
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7. Re: My trip to Napoli

Oh gee - thanks! i'm going to get all shy now...well, if you're enthusiastic about somewhere yourself it's not difficult to want to be helpful to those visiting. But I maintain my view that Napoli is an acquired taste and there's an art to seeing it at its best. But if people don't try it for themself, they'll never know how good it can be! Ciao, alla prossima.

UK
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8. Re: My trip to Napoli

Hi Mozzarella Girl and Cruise Lady - and getaround... just thought I'd add my tuppence worth about driving in Italy.... There go the nervous, visiting drivers, gently cruising in the slow lane, thinking they're safe, and..... suddenly the back of the car in front is coming towards you much faster than you know you're driving.... guess what ? ... Yes - the local drivers have missed their exit and are now reversing back down the inside lane towards you to get out !!!! I saw this happen five.... literally five times.... over a two week holiday driving the length of Italy as far as Salerno down one coast and back up via Puglia and Rome to the North ! Correction... after Rome, I couldn't face it any more and handed over entirely to my husband to drive back ...

Huh ! So, you chicken then ? or what ? !!!! YEs ! Very chicken, positively squawking ! ;-)

Regards, Nolana.

Ontario,Canada
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9. Re: My trip to Napoli

Thanks to Nolana and M.G. for your responses...I'm really thinking twice about this driving.Now looking at tour companies..so we can all enjoy.

Thanks again.

CRUISELADY

Washington, DC
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10. Re: My trip to Napoli

getaround, it was a joy reading your post and the responses to it (very sorry to hear about your wife's mugging). There is nothing like having a few guidelines for an area even if you are a brave explorer at heart.

My best friend and I are returning to Italy, this time achored in the Florence area in Arezzo. A couple of years ago we did cities: Milan, Venice, Florence and Rome via train over 15 days). We'd like to include Naples and Capri as one of our day trips from Arezzo. Is it realistic to do both in a day? Right now it's a toss up between the freedom of driving and the saved energy riding the train will afford. Travel time seems to be about equal unless we take the ES. Are there convenient and safe public places to park? Or parking lots, if so, does anyone know of general pricing?

Is a boat tour of the islands and grottos a good introduction to Capri/Anacapri? What areas does the cable railway serve? Is that a good way to get around once on-island? Very touristy plans, but I love getting an overview of a new place first, then diving into the details. In any case, my friend and I are from New York and Washington, DC, so we always get a twisted joy out of being tourists elsewhere! :)

I found a Capri tourism map online which lists various itineraries for viewing tourist attractions, but what would you frequent visitors and residents recommend to see/hear/taste/touch?

Thanks so much! (travel dates: July 1-9)