I'm going to Rome for five nights at the end of May with my wife. We haven't been there for 30 years. We've sorted out the hotel and the footwear.(!) We're not big sightseers. Yes we'll go to the Forum and the Parthenon but we like cafes and a bit of window shopping and lots of walking but we'd like to do "special stuff".
So what was special to you? (For example I've read that walking Rome very early in the morning is fun.)