We were grandparents with 2 preteens and loved Rome, though it wasn't our favorite city on the trip. I think the fact that it was our first stop and we were still on jet lag may have contributed to that. Every city in Europe has graffiti so we expected that, though the girls were surprised. We stayed away from all tours and did it on our own. We did take advice in getting our museum pass at the small hidden place at the Roman Forum--no wait at all and then just whizzed past the lines at the colosseum. Since we were way out from everything--at the Novotel we took their free shuttle in to the train station and took off from there. This hotel is only for people who need to park their cars, or have children so you don't want to stay out late. It's beautiful, cheap, with a great breakfast, but the last shuttle leaves around 8:30PM to take you back. What an experience to watch your grandchildren in awe of such great history. We were never bothered by anyone except rude tourists trying to push their way into and out of places. We also took advice and did Forum (I was surprised that both girls chose this as their 2nd favorite place in Rome) first in morning and headed for Vatican in afternoon, hardly any lines. We did the Museum first and headed out the back door to St. Peter's. The older daughter has declared this as one of her favorite places to visit. They convinced us we should hike up the dome and after suffering only minor shock, we made it. They counted the steps for us to let us know how many we had left after each 100-wasn't that sweet?? Then off to Trevi fountain, crowded but they made it to the front to throw in their coin--other granddaughter's favorite place. We just looked in McDonald's to see it--no way we're eating there--then on to the Spanish steps where a wedding pictures were being taken. Boy do the Italians have fun when something special is going on. Only negative was the metro--just because we come from small town USA and the crowds getting on and off were tough. Otherwise, it was easy to find everything. Food was great and the girls began their journey of trying every gelato flavor they could here in Rome.