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Trip report from end of October!!!

Ireland
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Trip report from end of October!!!

Apologies for the delay in posting, this relates to end of October – Jess has been back once already since this trip!!!

So, arrived midday on a beautiful, warm Sunday. As I was staying at B&B Sandra, in Cannaregio, I decided to use the ATVO bus for the first time. Very easy. Got my vap pass at the bus station, and hopped on the water bus and got off at San Marcuola. Due to excellent directions from Sandra, found the B&B with no problem. Beautiful, beautiful place to stay. I was lucky enough to get the attic room for 2 nights of my visit, and I can’t tell you how glorious it was, sitting in the sun on the altana, with a glass of wine, looking out onto the rooftops, watching the boats go by….

That first evening, after strolling for hours, letting my woes and worries leave me, I ended up on Fond della Misericordia. I ate at Restaurant Diana, on a table by the canal. The food was lovely – wonderful fresh pasta and it was a glorious evening. No sgroppino!! After a very leisurely meal, took me

2 mins to walk back to to Fond Trapolin, and my lovely room.

Got up bright and early and went out for a stroll. Had arranged to meet Jessybobs outside the church, at Campo San Geremia. I had a lovely morning walking through Cannaregio, along the Cannaregio canal where I was able to browse among a brik a brack market, held in one of the campo’s by the canal side. The Ghetto was lovely. The wall monuments are beautiful, and very humbling. I walked from there to Campo San Geremia to meet Jess. Didn’t take too long to actually meet - we were sitting behind each other on benches in front of the church!! We picked up some lunch, and decided to eat in Parco Savorgnan. After lunch, an excellent chat and wonderful ice cream, which we ate whilst watching the world go, sitting in the sun on the Grand Canal at San Marcuola, we then went for another stroll.

It was lovely to have met up with Jess. We really had a lovely, leisurely afternoon! Roll on Roma, Jess!! :0)

I’d booked myself a table at Al Fontegio dei Pescaori the evening previously. No free glass of Prosecco with the menu this time, although I did notice a couple ask for a glass, which they did get. Had razor clams for the first time, and they were lovely. I have to say, I didn’t enjoy the pasta as much as at Diana, but I did have a lovely meal, and still got my lovely glass sweetie with the bill. No Sgroppino!! I’ve eaten here before, and definitely recommend it, but for those that like to do a little research into where they eat, I definitely recommend both Venice Osterie, by Michela Scibilia and Chow Venice. I like the pictures in Venice Osterie, but I also like the longer reviews in Chow Venice….

Apologies for the length, I’ll post this now, as you can see, it’s taken me a ridiculous time to get posting, so I’ll continue shortly…

Collegeville, PA
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1. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Reading your post brought me back 14 months ago to September/October 2007. We also stayed at B&B Sandra and reading your thoughts were validation for me as to how much I raved about, and enjoyed, staying there. Aren't Sandra and Leonardo just delightful? Such a clean accomodation, the most fabulous breakfasts, and as we also stayed in the "attic", we, too, enjoyed wine and basking in the sun while on the altana. We also headed for Diana the first evening in Venice. I'm not sure if Sandra verbally recommended it, but it was on her very good list of reasonable and tasty eateries in the area.

I'm looking forward to hearing more about your travels if you want to post a little more.

I have looked at this forum daily since we returned. If I can't get physically back to Venice in the near future, just reading this form is like a breath of Venice for me!

Thanks for your report.

Ireland
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2. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Mormor,

Apologies, I really should have posted before. I'd printed out my previous thread, and showed Sandra your greetings. She said she of course remembered you both, and was very glad you'd recommended her to me. She said to pass on her, and Leonardo's best wishes.

As I said, apologies I haven't passed them on before.

Kathleen

Ireland
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3. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Tuesday. A bit grey and chilly today, but I’ve never found the weather dulls the buzz I get from just being in Venice… Once again, early start, and made my way to Piazza San Marco, and my usual visit to Degani, the stamp shop, to pick up some bits for my Dad. Visited my favourite haunts on Calle Larga del L’ascension. Stopped off at Giardini ex Reali, which was actually my first visit, and then got the vap over to Santa Maria d. Salute, and got lost in Dorsoduro! I had planned to go and see Peggy for the first time, but bless, Peggy is closed on Tuesdays, so just strolled along, and found myself at Casin De Nobili, where I had a lovely light lunch (No Sgroppino)

Kept walking, and managed to find Daniela Ghezzo Segalin Venezia, on Calle Deit Fuseri. If you have any interest in shoes, then find this shop. Sincerely, the shoes are sublime! Wait till you see them!!

Finally started to flag, so vap home, nap for a couple of hours, glass of wine on the altana, then out for dinner at Casa Mia, Calle dell’Oca. Nice meal, and I think the least expensive of my trip. (No Sgroppino!!!)

I have to mention here, that although I’ve been to Venice several times before, I always feel safe and happy stolling about in the evenings on my own. You always have to aware of your surroundings, I’m not suggesting anyone should be foolish in regard to their safety, but if anyone feels they’d love to visit, and their only option is to travel on their own, then I can highly recommend it. I tend to be indulgent when I travel on my own, and I can’t tell you all how much I enjoy my trips to Venice, which thankfully for me, now always means meeting up with friends, on this occasion both old and new!!

Wednesday. Another glorious sunny day. First thing on the agenda is a trip to the Lido, and visiting old friends… Lovely seeing both Maria Grazia and Bruno again, as well, of course as all the felines!! Spent a lovely morning chatting, and helping out. When it was time to leave, I took a right, coming out of Strada del Cimitero, and found myself walking along the sea wall! It had got very warm, and it was lovely walking along, beside the sea… When I managed to drag myself away, and got back on the bus, then the vap, I got off at Arsenale, with the aim of finding either Trattoria Cea, or Boccadoro in Canneregio. Found both, but I’d been dandering for so long, it must have been about 3pm and they were both closed!!! Hey ho, at least I know where they are now, so they’ll be on the list for my next visit (April/May 09?) No lunch for me that day! No matter, dozed on the altana in the glorious sun, with another glass of wine and a book, and then set out about 7 and made my way to Taverna San Trovaso. Sat upstairs for the first time, but no problem, food fine as usual. As mentioned previously, there was an issue with the “if the Prosecco isn’t fizzy, doesn’t that just mean it’s flat?” conversation, but all light hearted, and I just had a different wine. SGROPPINO – YES!!! As glorious as ever!! Well worth the wait. You know, next visit, I’m going to Harry’s Bar and Florian’s to see if I can get Sgroppino there. Will I have any joy? I’ll let you know.

I'll continue with my last day shortly....

K

x

Cheshire, United...
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4. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Hi Kathleen

Great report... great chatty afternoon we had ! now you forgot St Lucy this time LOL !!

Glad to see you got over to Lido on Wed, the day I went home..didn't know it was a lovely day as I left at 7.30am shucks !

glad you got your Sgroppino !! see ya on OTC and in Rome !

Jess

San Diego
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5. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Nice to read your report Kathleen.

You are giving me lots of ideas for new things to see and do and places to eat. All those people who say you can "do" Venice in 2-3 days are dead wrong, aren't they? I have been there twice so far and see that I could go many times more and not be finished.

Thanks again .

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6. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Really lovely report, Kathleen

Thank you,

Ireland
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7. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Thanks, Jess, you’re absolutely right! St Lucy caught me unawares in San Geremia with those crinkly hands and feet…

I love to visit churches and light candles. I was quite perplexed on my first visit to Italy when I came across the “flick a switch” candles, so I’m always especially pleased when I find the real thing! (a small comfort when thinking of people and dogs and cats…) Myself and Jess popped into both Gli Scalzi and San Geremia that Monday. We very nearly had a drink, sitting in the sun at the first restaurant you come to (on the Grand canal) as you turn left out of the station. We sat at a table, looked at the menu, and even though it was such a lovely day, felt we couldn’t justify the more expensive than Florian’s prices, without the glorious, justifiably priced Florian location. No problem, we just said “Grazie” and left and had a lovely ice cream, which we ate sitting at Campo San Marcuola, watching life going by on the Grand Canal. Beautiful!

Other things I’d forgotten; I had wanted to try Ca D’ora (Alla Vedova) for dinner one evening. I got there just as it was opening Sunday, and as mentioned in another post, went in to try and book for a meal later in the week. I didn’t have any luck unfortunately. Only two people sitting at tables, and a couple of people at the bar, but the staff were too busy to speak to me, so after repeatly trying to get their attention, after 5 mins, I decided to cut my losses. I actually did try again the next day, but more of the same, so I figured I’d leave it.

I had meant to try and book a meal in “Vini da Gigio” just across the canal from Al Fontegio dei Pescaori – it had been mentioned by Gaia606 in my Sgroppino quest, but I never managed to pass by when it was open! Still on the list for next time..

I’ve just realised that I don’t think I paid (apart from donations at churches and on the Lido) an entrance fee anywhere this visit. As mentioned, I had meant to go visit Peggy, but apart from that, all the beautiful things I saw were free! I always have a little itinery before I go, but to be honest, I just mooch along and if I fit 3 things on the plan in, then that’s good. And doesn’t matter anyhoo, because I’ll be able to try and fit them in the next time (or the time after) I’m there!

Thanks, Riffsmom, you’re of course right. “Doing Venice” in only a couple of days is never going to happen, but if I only had a couple of hours, then it’s still definitely worth going!! I was going to tag a few days on to the end of our Rome trip, but Easyjet still haven’t confirmed flights, so I wouldn’t be able to get home!!! Not matter, I’m thinking of April/May for the next visit…

Thanks, too, Sophie. I know some people aren’t keen on these “turns into an epic” trip reports, but I love reading other people’s thoughts, so apologies for the ramblings, but it’s nice having the opportunity to relive the trip.

Last installment will be me tripping over myself and very nearly breaking my ankle!

K

x

MD
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8. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

The sgroppino at Taverna San Trovaso is my favorite in Venice. Glad you finally found one.

San Diego
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9. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Kathleen, I have had good luck in Venice with restaurants by asking my hotel/B&B to make a res for me either before I arrive or while I am there.

I know enough Italian to do it myself but they seem to be able to do it more easily.

Baltimore, Maryland
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10. Re: Trip report from end of October!!!

Kathleen wonderful report !! I like your style :) I'm eagerly awaiting the next installment, have you posted any photos by the way ?

ahhh strolling in Venice.....belissimo !