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Notes from the Peloponnese

Molaoi, Greece
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for Naxos, Peloponnese
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Notes from the Peloponnese

I’m not big into trip reports so I’ll try to keep this brief.

Monemvassia

Always a joy to visit and even better this time because a family of turtles had taken up residence in the harbour at Gefira. They may have gone by now but they swam close to the water’s edge and we got some great views of these amazing creatures.

Kiparissi.

The drive from Molaoi is spectacular once you hit the coast. The road isn’t for the fainthearted but is well worth the effort. The colour of the sea was incredible shades of turquoise and blue. Lovely village. If you’re ever in the area, I urge you to go.

Kithira.

Initial impressions are not good as the road from the port of Diakofti goes through barren countryside for a few miles before dropping to lovely valleys with pines and cypresses. Kapsali is overrated and absurdly expensive. We stayed in Hora which is a wannabe Cycladic village. Very pleasant with an old Venetian Kastro to explore. Next time I would stay in Avlemonas which is a very pretty village with a few rooms and good tavernas and close to a very good beach.

We picked up a hiker – an elderly yiayia of at least 80 years who was very chatty. Do you have children? Na sas zisoun. Do you like Tserigo? It took me a few minutes to work that one out. Lovely lady.

Elafonissos.

Excellent beaches. There is a great taverna at Panagia beach. We stayed at the Golden Star studios which are right on the waterfront in the village with marvellous sunset views. Big room, almost new with a large four poster bed and proper shower and mini kitchen. Strongly recommended. Choice of decent tavernas in the village. Best octopus I’ve ever had.

Elea

Can’t resist a mention for this almost unknown little gem on the Laconian Gulf looking west towards Taygetos. A pretty village surrounded by olive groves with a nice harbour just starting to wake up to its tourist potential. The village has a really nice vibe in the evenings when the locals come out to play.

Poulithra

Stopped here for lunch as usual on the way back north. This is a gorgeous place but developing fast and has changed a lot since I first went there about ten years ago.

Nafplio

We treated ourselves to the Amymone Hotel for three nights on the strength of reviews on here. All went well for two nights. On the third day, we returned to the hotel in the evening to change for a night out to find that we’d been evicted to their sister hotel along the street as they had double booked our room. We wouldn’t have minded moving but were incensed that they had moved all our things without our consent. The owner was away and had left her son in charge and he cleared off to leave the receptionist to give us the news. All extremely unprofessional but we got a discount and were allowed to keep the room past the usual checking out time.

Epidavros

The theatre always amazes me. The usual extroverts were showing off their karaoke skills. Note to visiting Scots – please leave your bagpipes at home in future.

All in all, a fantastic trip.

Athens, Greece
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for Athens
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1. Re: Notes from the Peloponnese

:)

Leeds
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11 posts
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2. Re: Notes from the Peloponnese

Thank you! Your wonderful report really brought back memories of our two holidays in the Peloponnese. We are going to Crete next month but hope to return to the Peloponnese next year as we really loved it there. Your report will help us to plan our trip with great pleasure and anticipation! More please!

Athens, Greece
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for Peloponnese, Athens
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3. Re: Notes from the Peloponnese

Sounds like you had a great time!

Come back soon!

Dalton-in-Furness...
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549 posts
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4. Re: Notes from the Peloponnese

Many thanks for making the effort.

Nice to hear you went to lesser known places.I would agree the drive to Kiparissi is quite hairy, or it was in the 90's with much of the road downhill to the village washed away.

We also liked Elea, it's strange how some places seem to be "forgotten" when others develop quickly into resorts. Also liked Molai and on our last visit to Poulithra, a couple of years ago, we were saddened at all the building going on.Nothing stays the same.....

Molaoi, Greece
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for Naxos, Peloponnese
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3,763 posts
28 reviews
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5. Re: Notes from the Peloponnese

It's nice to know that I'm not the only one to have 'discovered' Elea. The thing about this corner of Lakonia is that it's four hours or so from Athens airport and doesn't get a mention in any of the guide books so most people wouldn't know of it or take the trouble to find out. The only place in the immediate area that figures in the guide books is Monemvassia and you don't need to go anywhere near Elea to get there.

A new road is being built which will bypass Sparti (thank God - I'll be happy never to have to make any more left turns at uncontrolled crossroads in the town) which will knock travelling time down by the best part of an hour. This is likely to open up the area a bit and encourage development but hopefully it will never go the way of Stoupa and the surrounding area which is being destroyed by over development.

Dalton-in-Furness...
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6. Re: Notes from the Peloponnese

Ah, yes, but that's presuming we can still get a flight to Kalamata or Athens!!

I'm not attempting to organise anything for next year with the uncertainty of the travel industry and the rapidly rising rate of inflation. We'll see how things are after a few months as we normally go to Greece in May.

Interesting to hear Kythira was expensive. A lot more so than the minland? Never been there but always thought we ought to have!

Ottawa
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7. Re: Notes from the Peloponnese

Thanks, philhellene. I’m filing this info away for when I win the lottery or my kids finish university, whichever comes first.

Susan

8. Re: Notes from the Peloponnese

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