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Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

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Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

I exited Schwechat at around 7:30 pm, got on the S-7 and changed to the U-3 at Wien-Mitte, arriving at Stephensplatz about 40 minutes later. I broke into a big grin when I popped up in front of Stephansdom, took a quick look around, and walked down the Graben to Pension Nossek. Briefly, PN is fair enough value for the price – clean, excellent location, and friendly staff – but amenities and an enjoyable atmosphere are modest, at best. It was almost exactly what I expected, though. On my next visit, I’ll probably return to the Kaiserin Elisabeth, where I stayed last year.

Friday 25 November

I got a late start, due to jet lag. After eating an unremarkable breakfast in the pension, I meandered down the Kartnerstrasse to the Ring; it was about 30F, foggy and misty, and remained so all day. I stopped for a few minutes in the Malteserkirche and then browsed the shop windows (Benetton has a Tannenbaum decorated with little sweaters). By the way, did Peek & Cloppenburg build a new store? After I rode trams 1 and 2 around the Ring, I was still tired so I hopped on Tram D and rode out to Nussdorf, just to have a look at some districts outside the 1st. During the trip, I noticed the Liechtenstein Museum on the left.

I stopped at Aida for some marillentorte and tea first, and then spent the rest of the afternoon at the Liechtenstein. I enjoyed my visit immensely: the palace is grand, the collections of baroque art are stunning (I cannot get the “Badminton Cabinet” and “The Temptation of St. Anthony” out of my mind), and an organist was rehearsing in the Hercules Haal as I toured the galleries. There were very few visitors, so I could enjoy looking at the collections in peace and quiet. I highly recommend this lovely museum. (Update: I just looked at the website and noted that as of January 2012, the museum is transitioning to a new business model and will only be available for pre-booked guided tours and special events.)

www.liechtensteinmuseum.at/en/pages/home.asp

Making my way back to the Innerestadt, I hopped on the tram again and got off at the Rathaus, where the Christmas lights were visible through the thick mist. I walked through Heldenplatz and the Hofburg complex, stopping to visit Michaelerkirche around 5:30 pm. Mass was in progress and I listened for a few minutes before continuing my walk back to PN. Simply walking the streets of Vienna is a pleasure unto itself: people-watching, window-shopping, seeing the Christmas lights and decorations. I stopped at Freytag & Berndt on the Kohlmarkt to buy a comprehensive map of Vienna, and during the evening continued reading an excellent book about Vienna, a social and cultural history by Paul Hofmann entitled “The Viennese: Splendor, Twilight and Exile.”

Edited: 04 December 2011, 16:16
vienna
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1. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

Thank you for reporting your observations - Liechtenstein makes a fine visit and good concerts on Sunday too.

Peek and Clop opened their new flagship store on the left side of Karntnerstrasse when walking toward the Opera some months ago-

Multi stories - even a Gerstner cafe I thnk .

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2. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

Another aspect of the Liechtenstein that I enjoyed were the beautiful hues of the walls in the galleries – those I remember best were a deep turquoise and a rich ochre. In between looking at artworks, it was very restful to sit for a few minutes and soak up those saturated colors.

Casuarina
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3. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

Looking forward to the rest of your trip report. We leave for Vienna on Friday for six nights and have booked Liechtenstein Palace for the Sunday lunch, art and concert. Thanks for adding to our excitement with your wonderful descriptions.

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4. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

I envy you --I wish I could go back to the Liechtenstein today. I'm sure you will love Vienna, especially at Christmastime. I'm already planning the Third Annual Penguin Visits Vienna trip!

I appreciate your kind comments. I enjoyed writing the report, and am glad that it enhances your enjoyment. Expect the next installments later this week.

ohio
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5. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

penguin65, thanks for the report and the link for the audio tour

Burnley, United...
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6. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

What a shame the Liechtenstein is closing as a regular museum. It's a lovely place and making it less accessible is a mistake in my view. If they need to save money simply cutting back opening hours would be better. I can see a lot of tourists, guide books in hand, being very disappointed when they get off the D tram in the coming months!

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7. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

I completely agree, Norman. I would have loved to be able to go back there on my next trip. It's also a good reminder to check websites just before you travel: Hotels/restaurants/attractions can close; opening times can change, etc.

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8. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

Hi,

My husband and I are planning a trip to Vienna. About to become empty nesters, tranisition. We love food, people, pubs, museums, music, etc. To be honest I don't know much about the city. I have been to St. Anton in my twenties, enough said.

I have also been to Prague - beautiful city. I want to combine another great city with Vienna (not Prague).. Any suggestions? We have about a week.

Burnley, United...
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9. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

I think you'd be better posting this as a new topic when it will get more attention. It's not really related to the trip report you've attached it to. :-)

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10. Re: Vienna Trip Report: Thursday, 24 Nov to Mon 28 Nov, Part 1

Norman –

I was surprised to see it bumped this morning It awoke from a long winter's sleep!