We are traveling in August and are trying to figure out which beach to focus on--we have about 10 days for the beach. We are experienced backpackers and have traveled twice with our children to India (now ages 8 & 10). We enjoy staying at small, simple, but CLEAN guesthouses/homestays, and eating local food in small dhabas/dosa shops, or I guess in Sri Lanka, hotels, and going to chai shops. Small local temples and pujas are nice as well.
We would like to stay on the beach, or within walking distance. We do not like resorts or fake fancy places. We also do not want to stay in an area that feels like a building site (I understand the east is getting rapidly built up to accommodate all of us travelers...)
Please send updated info on upuvelli/nilaveli vs. kalkudah/passekudah.