I arrived on 3rd july on easyjet flight from Gatwick, there were 92 people on board who had all travelled against FO advice. This was the day of morsi's ultimatum from the army-the streets were quiet on drive through town until around 8pm when many came onto the streets in celebration. The police and army who were present were all being applauded and everyone was singing, dancing and flag waving-I did not feel at threat at all and actually felt happy to see the people of Luxor smiling again. later this evening there was trouble in Cairo and Alexandria.
Early next morning I flew to Cairo and although there was more army presence on the streets the majority of people were going about their normal day to day business.(I did not go too near the square-so cannot comment on this area).In the afternoon I took a local bus to Alexandria. Arriving in Alexandria I seen a helicopter hovering above the town-the taxi driver told me there had been some trouble and the town was being monitored by air. I went out along the corniche later that night and everything was quiet-although all people were glued to television reports. On the Friday night I was going into town in Alexandria to eat-however -I didn't get there due to a Brotherhood march which had turned nasty. The taxi I was travelling in was advised by locals to turn back-I witnessed a couple of pick up trucks with people who were obviously hurt being rushed away from the area-also 3 ambulances were just arriving as I left. From 1/2 mile further back along the corniche everything was as normal-so I ate in small restaurant there. Next day
(Saturday) I went into town for shopping and there was signs of previous evenings trouble-lots of stones on the road, few burned out cars, broken windows-the army had couple armoured vehicles there and a couple of the roads were barbed wired off limits. The helicopter and fighter jets flew across several times. I did not feel worried or scared as I walked around the town-but I did have the realisation that I had seen no other Europeans at all since I had arrived -only another 5 Japanese tourists. I took local bus back to Cairo then flew to Luxor.
During the next couple of weeks Luxor has been extremely quiet ,I did not witness any trouble but I did hear about another Morsi supporters march- near the temple which passed peacefully. I heard about the attack on the airport but seemingly it was dealt with quickly and effectively.
During the latest call out to the streets-Friday evening yet again 1000's in Luxor demonstated quite peacefully,(although I know many of people who turned out were carrying weapons-knifes,sticks,guns) there was a couple of incidents-I heard of (I did not witness firsthand).One of tyres being burnt and another of some fight near television street. Luxor had a helicopter flying above town on this night too.
In the 29 times I have visited this is the quietest I have ever seen it. Many of the bigger hotels have 1-8 guests only. The tourists I did meet also said they had found Luxor extremely quiet. Its sad to see so many people just sitting with absolutely nothing to do-no work, tourists. The people still have hope that things are now going to get better-I hope it does too but really I think it will take a long long time for people to feel safe enough to return. I personally think the western media have not helped the situation by showing only the violence and not fully explained the position and showing many people in day to day life.
I am sitting now in Cairo waiting for flight back and it doesn't look as if there are many people who will be on the plane.