We made back to back trips to Luang Prabang during March 2010 and 2011. What a change one year can make. On the plus side we were virtually smoke free in 2011 vs 2010 from 3-8 March. The down side came as soon as we were on landing approach. I noticed the up turned dirt next to the existing runway and turned to my wife to say "oh no, they're building a runway for bigger aircraft." Checking in with a Luang Prabang friend indeed the onslaught is preparing to arrive. Add to that a train from China is being developed. What will happen to Luang Prabang when 190 people per Boeing 737 flight, 10 fights a day begin arriving? What about when 250 additional arrive on trains daily? The explosion in hotel building on the peninsula is nothing short of amazing and to an extent that the local authority is seeking to cap new hotel conversions. Traffic up the quiet Mekong was double this year and each boat had many more people on it. How will the quiet, kind and "Laos" paced natives deal with the on-slaught of in-a-hurry, sometimes brusk tourists that will descend on eateries and lodgings alike? I see another Siem Reap in the making. Hordes of buses, Sisavangvong Road swelled to over capacity, the up and down stairs to Mt Phousi with queues like massive snakes, monks unable to collect alms without tripping over hundreds, thousands of tourists. I know tourism is healthy for Laos and there will be a healthy Lao GDP increase, but that quiet little place that always wore a brilliant smile will soon be changed forever.