Driver only or driver & guide

Mandurah, WA
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Driver only or driver & guide
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I've got a bit of a dilemna...I'll be in Flores in July with my family (2a & 2c) and we're planning to travel overland from Maumere to Labuan Bajo, following the standard route Maumere - Moni - Kelimutu - Ruing - Bajawa - Ruteng - Denge - Wae Rebu - Labuan Bajo. Considering we're starting in Maumere where there are less guides (apparently) and July is high season, I thought it prudent to organise guide services in advance, but I've been getting some quotes in and to be honest they are ranging from very expensive to outrageous in my view US$2,000-4,000 for a 6D/5N trip. In truth we'd actually like to spend 8D/7N crossing but I can only imagine the price with go up accordingly.

1) So after extensive research here on TA and elsewhere, I'm starting to wonder about feasibility of doing the trip independantly with a driver only and using local guides at each stop. My concerns are:

2) Am I likely to find an english speaking driver?

3) How difficult will it be to find local guides (I'm assuming our guesthouses will be able to help out here) and what likelihood they will speak english?

4) Is my estimate of accommodation costs 200.000-300.000 per night, twin share for clean accommodation reasonable?

Just to give you a bit of background, I speak a little basic bahasa Indonesian but not conversational level and we're fairly well travelled around SE Asia so have no expectations for anything other than basic amenities during this overland trip. Has anyone done the overland trip independantly? If so how did it go? All comments welcome.

Bali, Indonesia
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for Ubud, Pemuteran, Yogyakarta Region, Indonesia
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1. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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Hi Flatdog: Maumere has many guides, maybe not as much as LB since tourism exploded there very recently, but yes there are guides. Many drivers can also work as your guide. When you arrive at the airport in Maumere, there will be many drivers hoping to get hired by arriving passengers. There is one driver that I have used mostly recently in the past year, but don't know if he speaks english or not...He is very nice, and I've used him several times before. If you want his hp number feel free to send me a PM. As I say, you can wait until you arrive so you can meet any drivers in person and examine their car, language skills etc first. And yes, the longer you can take for the trip, the more you will enjoy it! Distances in cars are very long and the roads are incredibly winding.

July is certainly "high season" but in Eastern Flores that doesn't mean a lot!

Mandurah, WA
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2. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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Thanks Ubudpuppy. I think we will take your advice. We have a little flex in our itinerary so if we need to take a day in Maumere to find a good driver or driver/ guide so be it. I'll PM you for your drivers contact details.

Bolton, UK
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3. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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Hi,

When we hired our car in LBJ we were surprised when the guy turned up with a non English speaking driver. Turns out, the guy we sorted the price and trip out with was the fixer/ guide (of sorrts) and he used his friend to drive. We asked why there were two of them and he said incase there were problems - like a flat tyre etc.

When we were leaving Denge it turned out to be useful, as a truck had broken down in the middle of the road completely blocking it. It was full of concrete blocks. Ended up with all of us and the locals having to try and use them to make a temporary road at the side to allow our car past!

Just a comment on your trip. If you only have 6D/5N then you will not be able to overnight in Wae Rebo (as you mention on another post). Nor would I say, Ruing. Even with 8D/7N you would be pushing it. Especially if you are going to use one of them to sort out in Maumere.

Edited: 7 years ago
Mandurah, WA
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4. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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Thanks Infoaddict. We've actually got time 10 full days in Flores so we were thinking 1 day in Maumere to organise the driver and have a look around, 8 days overland, then 1 day in Labuan Bajo for rest, looking around and getting some washing done. Then island hopping boat back to Lombok via Komodo & Rinca etc. Should be plenty of time I think?

Bolton, UK
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5. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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OK - so this should IMHO be your plan

Day 1 Maumere

Day 2 Maumere to Moni

Day 3 Kelimutu and then drive to Bajawa (Very long day)

Days 4 & 5 Bajawa

Day 6 Bajawa to Ruteng

Day 7 Ruteng to Denge

Day 8 Denge to Wae Rebo

Day 9 Wae Rebo to Denge and maybe just maybe to LBJ (but doubtful). So lets say Ruteng

Day 10 Ruteng to LBJ. Theres not really much to see there. Sort out a boat and depart Day 11

If you could get into Maumere early then you may be able to arrange transport that day and get to Moni - saving you a day.

Sambalgoring recommends going to Ende to sort out your driver and then to Moni. So this is also an option.

Honestly you won't want to hang around Maumere - it's the pits, with awful accommodation.

Another tip is to avoid Merpati flights for now, as they are in big trouble and have canceled all flights until April. Who knows what will happen after that.

Mandurah, WA
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6. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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Thanks for the excellent information infoaddict.

Jakarta, Indonesia
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7. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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Hi. If start treking from Waerebo back to Denge at about 7am, you can get to Labuan Bajo the same day with your private transport (doable if no mishaps along the way and about 8-9 hours driving). No need to go back to Ruteng. At Pena (the main road junction) turn left to Bajo instead of right back to Ruteng. We did this way to save time and money.

Toronto, Canada
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8. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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infoaddict/Graham: I think we are going to do exactly what you propose in #5 :) Thanks for posting that again!

Any tips on how to select a driver/car/guide in Maumere? Should we interview the ones at the airport after we arrive? Instead continue to accommodation and let them call prospective drivers for us? We are hoping to spend 700,000 per day for the driver/car (in addition to where we'd have to pay for their accommodation in Denge).

Edited: 7 years ago
Bolton, UK
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9. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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Hi amz

No harm in chatting with the drivers etc at the airport. What have you got to lose.

The hotels in Maumere (I'll call them hotels for want of a better word without swearing), that we looked at all had guys hanging around in the lobby waiting for tourists

Don't tell the guys what price you will pay - just haggle as much as you can, whilst smiling and keeping it friendly. Just remember it's all a game. You are going for a long trip, so you should be able to negotiate a good rate per day. But do check that whoever you are speaking with is actually going to be going with you. Sometimes they can just be the fixer.

Toronto, Canada
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10. Re: Driver only or driver & guide
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Thanks for the advice :)

Gosh I hate haggling! I don't like being pushy lol.

I suppose it's okay to deal with a fixer as long as the driver he matches us up with speaks enough English and is familiar with the terms of the deal. Or is using a fixer a big no-no?

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