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Trip Report: Nerja, San Isidro, Torrox and microclimates.

Torremolinos, Spain
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Trip Report: Nerja, San Isidro, Torrox and microclimates.

I know it may seem a bit odd to do a Trip Report for a short trip along the coast but people are always asking so here goes.

We went along to Nerja to catch up with some friends and for San Isidro, stayed Tuesday to Thursday in the Mediterraneo Apartments ( at €18 per night for a one-bed apartment how can you say no? ). Cheap and cheerful, maybe a bit tired like many buildings of its age, but absolutely fine for a couple of nights. Not sure that I'd want to spend a couple of weeks there though, mainly because the apartments are so cheek by jowl. There weren't many people staying, I can imagine its rather noisy when there are. They do have British TV if you want a night in though, which we didn't!

Obviously because it was San Isidro many of the original Nerja bars were closed as their owners were busy with peña activities, but this was not a problem as there were still plenty of places to choose from. We ate in Sevillano's on the Tuesday night, I have to say I was rather disappointed with the food considering the price, it was very busy though (which is why we went there, a lot of places were quiet).

Wednesday was the day of the San Isidro procession, which meant that people had staked their claims to vantage points in bars along the route early. Unlike Nigel Farage, I cannot really face beer before noon so we headed down to the church to see the start of the procession. After the usual song and dance and flaffing about it finally started at about 1pm. There were some traditonal Romany horsemen and women, and some carts, but I was suprised to see floats sponsored by local businesses too. I suppose it makes the procession larger but it does turn it into more of a Carnival rather than a Romeria.

We followed the procession through the town (with an emergency stop at Los Bilbainos because we were going past and I like it in there) and then wimped out and got the shuttle up to the caves. Like all these things, it's fun for a bit but unless you're a member of a peña it starts to pale after a while, so an executive decisión was taken to return to Nerja.

As various drinks had been consumed by this point a late lunch was in order. The wind (did I mention the cold wind? More on that to come) had died down and the sun was out so we headed down to Burriana. As I am a chiringuito-boy we went to Jose Cruz, not strictly a chiringuito but a merendero by the beach so the next best thing. Excellent lunch, excellent staff, and a great atmosphere. I wanted early evening drinks in Sol y Mar but sadly they were closed. Burriana was quite busy.

Obviously the walk back up into town from Burriana leaves one in need of a beer, a quickie sitting outside Restaurant 34 (good tapas with it) meant we could make it to the end of Carabeo. If you ever wonder who actually buys the Daily Express just look in Allsorts newsagent at the top of Carabeo!

For some unfathomable reason some of our party wanted to look around the shops so we left them to it and went for some more beers. By this time the wind was beginning to gather strength again so sitting outside was only an option in sheltered places....

(I think there's a word limit on posts so treat this as Part I, Part II to follow).

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Torremolinos, Spain
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1. Re: Trip Report: Nerja, San Isidro, Torrox and microclimates.

Part II

Having gone back to the apartment to drop off some things and change into warmer clothes we then went down to Torrecilla Beach. Where's it gone? Obviously some reconsitution is going to be needed there pdq. Fun watching the waves crash ashore for a bit, we then headed back up towards town. A couple of beers in Vicente's on Calle Malaga and then an evening meal in Pequena Cibeles on Calle Cristo. The food was OK for the money (we were on the Menu del Dia, €10 ), a good atmosphere in there. Then some drinks nearer the apartment at the Malibu.

Thursday dawned sunny with only a slight breeze, so our hopes were high for stopping off in Torrox on the way back to Malaga. As the bus arrived there were vast numbers of Germans scrambling to get on, the moment we got off we realised why. It wasn't just windy, it was unbearable. Totally different weather to Nerja barely 20 minutes earlier. Torrox is proud of its microclimate...hmmm!

We went down to Torrox paseo but almost everything was shut. It really was quite difficult walking as the wind was so strong. Having had enough of this we made our way back up to the bus stop to join the throngs heading for Malaga or Nerja to get away from it!

Back in Malaga, a light breeze and sunny! Microclimates indeed!

General observations (not about Torrox as that woould be rather unfair):

In Nerja drinks are cheaper but food (proper food, not tapas) is more expensive than in La Carihuela. That is how the places manage to provide 'free' tapas.

Baked potatoes. On menus everywhere. They seem to be very popular, is this a Nerja thing?

Some new shops open, courageous in the current economic nightmare but certainly a good thing.

Plaza España (or Plaza Elefante Blanco as my friend calls it). Why? Did Mussolini ever visit Nerja? Totally out of character architecturally and size-wise with its location and totally empty. Plaza Hubris. We all know the Ayto. had more urgent things to spend money on.

All in all an enjoyable stay away, and good to see Nerja coming to life for the season.

(Apologies for the stray accents etc., they're not typos, if anyone knows how to stop the horror that is Windows 8 from switching my keyboard and spell-check back and forth between English and Español whenever it feels like it do let me know, ta!).

NoSoy xx

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Erith, Kent
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for Mijas, Sitio de Calahonda
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2. Re: Trip Report: Nerja, San Isidro, Torrox and microclimates.

Great report NSG, sounds like you had a good time. Glad to hear that there are some new business opening up, despite the economic crisis, perhaps there are some green shoots in Spain as well as the UK and things will only improve in the coming months and years.

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Spain
Spain
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Malaga, Spain
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3. Re: Trip Report: Nerja, San Isidro, Torrox and microclimates.

Great report NSG.

I have never noticed the baked potatoes issue, but now you say it's true: these are much more common in Nerja than anywhere else in the coast.

I own a house in Torrox, and it has a great microclimate indeed. We never get terral there, and when we are scorching to death in Málaga we sleep with windows shut in Torrox (which is a no-no in August in the capital). However, this also goes for winter time. There are always some incredibly unpleasant days in winter. Now this spring is being rather unpleasant everywhere.

I am heading to Torrox this weekend with the family, and we will surely be going to Nerja for dinner on Saturday. I'm really looking forward to summer time. Bit fed up of rain and wind.

Edited: 21 May 2013, 14:14
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Torrox
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Costa del Sol, Spain
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Costa del Sol, Spain
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4. Re: Trip Report: Nerja, San Isidro, Torrox and microclimates.

Just stumbled across this NSG, great report, seems like you managed to squeeze a lot in whilst you were there. Very surprised more people haven't thanked you tbh, i am always appreciative to people that take the time upon their return to submit a trip report, it's what helps the members who don't want to post get a good perspective of the area.

I have nearly finished mine, not that it's that compelling lol but very busy since my return so will post that very soon.

CB ",)

w62
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5. Re: Trip Report: Nerja, San Isidro, Torrox and microclimates.

It is a great report and very useful. I have noticed that baked pots are the thing here in Frig too. And we've had patatas bravas with French fried! And we've stood up AND sat down for tapas. ;-)

We followed the procession for a wee while but you kind of feel like you can't gate crash so we went to Burriana for a windy lunch.

Ps NSG it's scorching today in Frig. Better late than never.. Or 'what the bleeding heck???' - depending on what mood I'm in.

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2,275 Reviews
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6. Re: Trip Report: Nerja, San Isidro, Torrox and microclimates.

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