If you're in Tafraoute, it's worth visiting either or both of these places.
The house in Oumesnate isn't just a museum, it was - is to some extent - a family home with a real history. We were shown around the three storey granite, palm and argan house by a family member. He spoke excellent English, and as we were the only visitors spent a lot of time with us, explaining not only about the house, but lots of stuff about life - past and present - in Morocco. It was fascinating to see the old contracts for the house written on pieces of wood and an old 'Berber shower' in the corridor. There's a gorgeous view from the roof terrace over the crumbling pise walls of the old village. It's possible to drink tea (indeed to stay overnight) in the maison d'hote - run by the same family - next door. see www.masiontraditionnelle.ma
We were not asked to pay an admission fee, but we did make a donation.
The maison traditionnelle is an easy walk from Yamina in Tandilt. (Review posted under listings). From Yamina, turn left up the steps running up the side of the mosque and walk through 3 or 4 villages - the best way to do it, is to walk from mosque to mosque. Eventually (approx. 1.5 hours) you come out right at the side of the maison traditionnelle. If in doubt follow the main road to the museum, there is only a short stretch on the main road itself, most of the walk is walking through Tandilt to reach the road, and walking through 'new' Oumesnate to reach the house. At the museum the guide will point out the track to follow back. The walk is probably easier to follow in this direction.
The maison traditionelle in Tazekka is similar to the house in Oumesnate, but there are some subtle differences of style and some of the objects are different. (We liked the shearing scissors and ornate tea caddies). If pushed for time, you might choose to visit just one of these houses, if like me, you're interested in the preservation of traditional culture and architecture it's worthwhile to visit both. What makes this house so lovely to visit, is Mahfoud himself. Again, we were the only visitors there, so we got lots of attention, but he made tea for us in the Berber guestroom, and played the Berber violin while Jim accompanied him on the drum! Afterwards Mahfoud took us to the 'carved gazelle' - nothing to write home about - but a nice walk. Mahfoud was not pushy in any way and didn't ask for money. We had the impression he would have walked away with nothing, but we did give a donation.
If Mahfoud is not home when you arrive, hang around for a few minutes. We waited, and a neighbour called him on her mobile!



