Left savannah (see trip report 1) and drove to Charleston by way of Beaufort, a lovely little town on the coastal islands. Walked around the neighborhood of old mansions and big live oaks. Our Charleston B & B, 15 Church, was located in the most desirable, most beautiful, and most charming part of the "peninsula," the historic district. Owners are very sociable, knowledgable. Lots of socializing goes on there at the breakfast table and during nightly cocktail hours.
Took a harbor tour and, while it was pleasant, it wasn't very informative.
Took a two hour walking tour with Charleston Footprints. Very smart, informative, covers a lot of ground and a lot of history/culture. Highly recommended.
Middleton plantation: very beautiful grounds, even in November. Ancient live oaks, marshes on the river, ibises fishing. Took the African American tour. Hour and a half and very informative about slavery as practiced at Middleton and in S. Carolina. Highly recommended. House itself is a fairly peremptory half hour tour, but we are not big house people so others may appreciate it more.
Restaurants: FIG- possibly the best I've ever eaten at. Spinach salad with pickled green tomatoes and crab. Pork trotters with grainy mustard and gardiniera. A sorghum cake with malt ice cream that is the best dessert containing no chocolate I've had.
Magnolia- very fine food in the same local, farm to table style. Fried chicken with corn, mashed potatoes and biscuits like Grandma never made.
And Perlz for raw oysters. M-m-m.