23rd - 26th May 2012
Wednesday was another walking/biking day. Initially I had thought of getting a taxi up to Zia, then walking up the mountain or back to Kos Town (or both). Anyway, we decided to try and bike it, but not via the main road. We went up to Zipari, by now having found the cut through, then up to the reservoir near Messaria. From there it was an easy route, with the help of my excellent terrain map of Kos, to get to Zia, although naturally we had to push the bikes quite a lot as it was either steep or very rough (or both). We had a refreshment stop in Zia, then cycled along the recently tarmacked road past the Asklepion and down to Platani, where it was time for more refreshments. I was pleased to see that although the route has now been tarmacked all the way, it is still very quiet and the views of course are as stunning as ever. My GPS told me that I reached the dizzy speed of 35km per hour on the way down, at which point the slight buckle in my rear wheel probably made me look a bit like a bucking bronco…
On Wednesday night we ate at Rodini. Again, a lovely meal, but again, in our opinion not quite as good as Esperos. Afterwards we called into Theokritos and had a chat with Louise about the possibility of a hydrofoil to Rhodes on the Friday. Apparently the trips haven’t started yet, possibly due to paperwork problems. Maybe following on from similar problems in some islands with licencing/inspections etc. last year?
We also talked about the insect problem. Firstly, let me say I was not bitten at all while I was there, which is something of a record. But as night fell, the closer we were to the salt lake, the more small flies there were around. I don’t think they were the biting kind, but they were disruptive. I am assured by a restaurant owner I was talking to, that the business owners have made deputations to the mayor of Kos about this. Although this year the problem should be over when the lake dries out in a few weeks time, hopefully it won’t happen again next year. It’s all to do not just with spraying, but with allowing the channels from the sea to the lake to open up (apparently).
On Thursday we got up bright and early to bike to Kos Town harbour, where we had already booked the 3 island boat trip on the Katerina. We arrived nice and early so had a quick coffee in one of the bars by dolphin roundabut, waching the morning activities.
I have done a review of the boat trip, suffice to say it was a fantastic day out. Link follows:
When we got back, we decided to have a meal at one of my favourite tavernas from over the years, Mummy’s cooking. We had a meal which was certainly as good as Esperos, and it was nice to see the proprietor again, who treated me like a long-lost buddy! We biked back in the twilight with a gale blowing directly against us most of the way, and had a couple of beers in the Miros bar.
On the Friday, we decided to have a day relaxing, doing our own things. The weather was lovely, so I spent some time by the pool and on the beach. In mid-afternoon we went along to King-size bar and had a few beers, each round coming with considerable amounts of free food. After showering etc. we went to Esperos again – we had already decided that we would go there on the last 2 nights.
On the Saturday we went for a “small walk” to the salt lake. This ended up with us walking all the way round, and we saw evidence of the flies breeding grounds, and also a few terrapins – which were for the most part a lot bigger than ones I have seen before. On the way back we stopped off at Alikes restaurant – as its name suggests, it is the closest one to the lake. Here everything seemed very reasonably-priced, and good quality in nice surroundings – a large Mythos €2.00, a good-sized Greek salad with a big lump of feta for €2.80. I did some last minute shopping for the family, and just had time for a quick swim before going out early-doors to Esperos. I had kept my room on right till the coach came (8.30pm) so we could all get a shower etc., for a very reasonable €20.
We were a bit short of time in the restaurant, so declined their offer of some cake or liqueurs – so they put some in a polystyrene tray (cake that is) for us to take to the airport.
The coach was dead on time, the plane arrived back on time, then we had to wait an hour for our luggage at Manchester….
All in all, it went very well. Thanks to all those who helped me choose where to stay, and all those who recommended restaurants and walks as well.