We noticed that you're using an unsupported browser. The TripAdvisor website may not display properly.We support the following browsers:
Windows: Internet Explorer, Mozilla Firefox, Google Chrome. Mac: Safari.

Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

Bristol
2 posts
2 reviews
Save Topic
Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

I spent a couple of weeks in Orgiva, and surrounds, last summer, highly influenced by Chris Stewart's books and a recommendation from a colleague who holidays in Orgiva every year. I'm 60 so what I say may be highly age-biased but I'll post it for those who read this to take as they wish. First of all, a quote from Stewart's 'The Almond Blossom Appreciation Society, p243: 'I looked at the low whietewashed house with its thick stone walls, the hens scratching about in the dust, the magnificent vine drooping with fat green grapes, the geraniums bursting exuberantly from old pots and tins and was reminded of the simple unselfconscious beauty that I had first loved about the Alpujarras. It's true that it isn't to everybody's taste - the poverty and apparent shabiness put some people off - but there is an integrity to this beauty that has to be sifted from the rubbish and the thorns and dust.' Sadly, I'm one of those who cannot divorce the rubbish from the beauty, finding it hard to understand how people can live in such a potentially beautiful place yet allow a heap of old, used household appliances to accumulate around their house with apparent unconcern. How on earth can the Spanish put up a massive sign, just outside of Orgiva that welcomes you to the Sierra Nevada when the first thing that hits you is a massive juggernaut depot, spread in a haphazard jumble across both sides of the road. This is followed by ugly wind farms and so many electric pylons and cables criss crossing the mountains that it's hard to spot the attractiveness. Frankly, I find Spain, or what I've seen of it after( admittedly) only 2 visits, as little more than a massive quarry. I know it's a poor country, with a recent broken history and now a currrency crisis, and I'm sure that doesn't help, but all this is reflected in the people, too, and while I didn't get any hostility or unkindness, neither did I get the feeling anybody was bothered whether I was visiting the place or not. Orgiva is undoubtedly an 'alternative' place and especially on market day you'll find hundreds of new age and old-new age folk who find a certain peace in Orgiva or its surroundings. Actually from the hills on an evening, as the sun is setting it does look a magical pink hued place but the reality is rather shabby and couldn't care less. By the way, the market is fabulous, so if you do go, get there early in your stay and make the most of the fresh produce at bargain prices. My previous holidays have been spent in Provence and the Lake District; if you too are partial to the well keptness of these two places then you may share my difficulty in appreciating the Alpurrajas. On the other hand you may look at it with Chris Stewart's eyes and see the magic; if you can enter the town and see any beauty in a huge electricity generator, however, then I take off my hat to you.

35 replies to this topic
Orgiva, Spain
Level Contributor
5 posts
9 reviews
Save Reply
11. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

I feel really sorry for you, I have recently retired out here from the Lake District which although stunningly beautiful is too cold and wet! I am sitting looking across the valley at the Sierra Lugar which looks down itself on Orgiva. The sun is shining, it is warm, I'm in my shorts and its 8.45am. We fell in love with this region about 9 years ago, bought a ruin and land 7 years ago and moved here this summer. I wouldn't be anywhere else. We have made some great friends, Spanish and other nationalities. I think people round here are more conscious of their environment generally speaking although I agree there is some visual pollution but let's face it you could find something to criticise in most places in the world. We don't have to wait for two weeks for our rubbish to be collected for example. During the tourist season they could do with collecting more often than they do but I've seen rubbish falling out of wheelie bins in Bowness on Windermere! The Spanish are a delightful people, it is gorgeous around here. There are 'stray' dogs but they are friendly and most wear collars, they've just been let out for the day! Dog mess isn't as bad as it used to be a few years ago. Go down into the town after 5pm and it is bussing, families on the square with children playing together - not so much of the stuck inside in front of your Xbox culture here - people enjoying delicious spanish coffee outside wonderful cafes like Gallindo's, what more could you ask? Don't forget that Chris Stewart and his wife came here in the 1980's, things have changed a bit in Spain since then as everywhere. By the way did you get out along the valley and discover the white villages and get right up above Capiliera? There are some amazing walks around here. The beach is only half an hour away and the amazing city of Granada and the Alhambra Palace 40 mins in the other direction. Spain is a big, diverse country going through bad times at the moment but I wouldn't be living anywhere else.

Pakistan
Level Contributor
54 posts
9 reviews
Save Reply
12. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

Hi. We are planning to spend 4 nights in the area in the second week of April. We want to make a base at ONE location and then drive around. Options (based on what I've seen on Tripadvisor) are:

- Bubión

- Pampaneira

- Órgiva

- Lanjarón

Which ONE place would you recommend?

(we are a family of 4 with children ages 11 & 14).

Edited: 18 December 2013, 08:08
Orgiva, Spain
Level Contributor
5 posts
9 reviews
Save Reply
13. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

There are lovely holiday homes to rent in Lanjaron and Orgiva. Either town makes a good base for travelling around the area. It really depends what you want to do. Lanjaron is nearer the motorway for ease of getting to the beach and into Granada. The Alhambra Palace in Granada is not to be missed as is the Arab part of the city. Orgiva is a good base if you are wanting to get more into the heart of the Alpujarras. You can find people who offer quad biking, horse riding, trekking etc. the white villages of Pampaniera etc are lovely. Trevelez is the highest village in Spain and maybe even Europe and is famous for its Serrano ham (jamon). Whatever you decide you will have a wonderful time, I am sure.

Pakistan
Level Contributor
54 posts
9 reviews
Save Reply
14. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

Thanks a lot for your reply. We would be spending a couple of days in Granada and then coming to this part. Next stop is Seville. We essentially have 4 days in the middle and want to enjoy something different. Drive and short walks if possible.

Regards

Waqas

Orgiva, Spain
Level Contributor
5 posts
9 reviews
Save Reply
15. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

If you fancy something different you would be very welcome to visit us on our secluded olive farm just above Orgiva. Contact me vis this nearer the time.

Preston, United...
Level Contributor
1 post
11 reviews
Save Reply
16. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

Recently returned from Orgiva (March 2014) so out of season. Dogs and their mess seem to be a theme in most of the villages we visited, even the 'pretty white ones' - apart from the very touristy Capileira. Others also seem to have dozens of cats. Much of Orgiva town is lived in and fairly poor, so not prettified in any way and there is a new age culture, though in the background still at this time of year. So many ex-pats in the bars you could have been in the UK! But it has the great backdrop of the Alpujarras and the bars etc were in the main friendly and the tapas included with drinks. Stay just outside town and it is a great base - though we will probably try near Lanjaron next time.

Devizes, England...
Level Contributor
3 posts
11 reviews
Save Reply
17. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

We have returned to Orgiva for our 5th year out of the past six. Part of the charm for us is that it is a pretty "normal" town, not prettified. The bars and cafés are friendly, even more so when you return the following year. The dog pooh is a nuisance but not excessive and the dogs are gentle and do not bother you. The New Age types are living a lifestyle which is not of our choosing but do not interfere with us. We love it because it is a genuine community which lives here, not a community created out of a tourist resort location. As a base it is perfect for visiting the mountains. We love the grittiness of the place compared to the antiseptic atmosphere of the resorts closer to the coast.

Leeds, United...
3 posts
Save Reply
18. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

Spend a week in orgiva in march. A bit dissapointed by the town its self. Not very pretty . The folks that live there are all great . i met some nice people. A fair few drop outs m but you can ignore them, It is a hippy comunity . There are some nut cases there. but once out of the main town center there are some great sights. every one has an oppinion. but you need to vist to make your own mind up !!

Culross, null...
1 post
Save Reply
19. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

Nobody who likes the lake district is going to like Orgiva... thank goodness becuase the Lakes in summer is a tourist hell: Trafic jams rain and midges & middle class prices for the A grade social strata types who go there..

We love Orgiva and go at least once a year. It is a real town not a tourist pleasure park. It's new age dwellers do not constitute a large part of the population but are mearly more noticeable because of their appearance. Yes there is litter and scrap but its no worse than most of British Cities if you separate out the major icons St Paul's, Edinburgh Castle Hampton Court etc. Walk up into the mountains and not only is the ground clean but so is the air. So book the Lakes this year and visit Word worths Gaff... I'm dozing off already.

Nopipe

Ilfracombe, United...
Level Contributor
2 posts
110 reviews
Save Reply
20. Re: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?

You are so wrong

Reply to: Is Orgiva as great as Driving Over Lemons makes it sound ?
Get notified by e-mail when a reply is posted
Get answers to your questions about Orgiva