The unusually low price of my flight with Thomas Cook prompted a return to Agonda ahead of my usual month in January/February.
It is all so much quieter before Christmas with only a few restaurants appearing to be busy. Among those I visited are Rainbow, White Sands and Tiger Canisha on the north side and La Fenice on the south side. La Fenice is a new this year and offers fine Italian cuisine at good prices. I had a great pizza and friends tucked into a seafood past and another had spaghetti. the owner is justifiably proud to show off his imported ingredients. La Dolce vita further down on the south side also boast such ingredients but really only scores on those things which it does very well eg ravioli.
Rainbow is under new management and is well worth a visit. Most of the older restaurants have increased their prices this year and the prices at Rainbow reflect this but you will not be disappointed by the quality of the food. Try the fish which is proudly displayed after sunset. Though obvious from the beach the entrance from the road is less so. Just pull up slightly before White Sands and just back from its parking lot is a wooden gate leading through a narrow passage where Carlos' family live, have cockrels (!) and two stone rooms worth asking about. Beyond these is the Rainbow huts and restaurant.
If you are on your own or wanting to meet new folk Tiger Canisha is a good place to eat. I visited this more than any other place. Currently there are several returning groups who regularly eat there from France Czech Republic and Germany (hello Hap and Sabena). The host Francisco is a home-cooking Goan chef of great standing. Try and spend some time with him at the end of a meal and you will learn loads. This year I tried his coffee feni for the first time! I continue to delight in his beef steak, veg pakora, sweet potato xacuti and coconut milk curry.
If you need a taxi why not try Sulesh on 91 94 23 836934. His has two drivers so should be able to help.
I'll be back again after 21 January for a month. Now there's a recommendation for Agonda!