The Suso monastery was the more enjoyable of the 2 monasteries for me, as it was older and with a more layered history. The architecture was influenced by each group that used the monastery, leading to an interesting little building nestled in the hills above the Yuso monastery.
You're only allowed to visit the monastery with a tour which leaves from the Yuso monastery, and the tour is all in Spanish. The monasteries don't seem to get too many international tourists because they're a bit difficult to get to and most people probably spend their time in La Rioja at the wineries. But if you're interested in history then the monasteries are a must see.
The only problem I had with the Suso tour was that after the tour guide explained the history of the monastery, there was very little time left to wander around. Although the monastery was quite small, it would have been nice not to feel rushed in order to get the next bus back.
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