Belliou La Fumee is an enigma. Run by a wonderful couple, he (Jean-Pierre) spends his time in the kitchen and his wife (Annie) runs the front of house. No reservations can be made by phone, so you'll need to stop by to book, and you do need to book.
The restaurant, summer or winter, is a treat rather than a place to stop on the way somewhere. In winter don't even think of skiing after the meal-you'll just want to take the navette back to your resort and recline in the glow of one of the best meals on the mountain.
Eating here isn't without its humour either. Our waiter greeted us with typical warmth. He looked us up and down, gave our table away to a far better dressed group and asked us to wait whilst he cleaned another table nearby. He then disappeared so we sat down. Returning with a frown he asked us to stand up so he could finish setting our table, explaining that if we stood it would be easier for him and that this 'wasn't McDonalds'. He did redeem himself admirably over the course of the dinner and we all warmed to his and the restaurant's charms.
Another funny moment was us asking for Rose wine. It was a hot, sunny day without a cloud in the sky. Although the snow was deep, we were sitting in T-shirts soaking up the sun. We asked for the wine list and couldn't find a Rose wine. When we asked if they had some, we were told 'of course'. When we asked why it wasn't on the menu, we learnt that the French only drink Rose wine in the summer and no self-respecting restaurant would include it in its 'winter wine list'. One lives and learns.
As ever the food was exceptional, as was the atmosphere, service and wine. For the quality you get it is great value and this is a must visit restaurant if you are in the area.
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