The excavated ruins are very interesting and the explanations of how the Romans sacrificed part of their city to make a more secure site sent a chill up my spine. Definitely worth going out of your way to see: the site is about 15 km outside of Coimbra.
We visited in July on a day which turned out to a municipal holiday. We had no trouble getting a Transdev bus there (from the bus stop are near the tourist office and the bridge across the Mondego, 2.50 euros) at 9 a.m., but the driver warned us that service would be reduced in the afternoon and that the first return bus would be at 5:55 p.m. Therefore we took our time at the ruins, and in the museum. We stopped for an excellent meal in the restaurant at mid day--8.50 euro special of the day which included appetizers, soup, main course, a glass of wine or a bottle of water, dessert and coffee. Great value in a very nice setting.
After lunch we decided to try one of the walks into the hills (there's one loop that is supposed to take five hours) which went through a forest and then rose for some great views at the top of one hill. When we got back in plenty of time for the return bus we discovered two other couples who'd been waiting for an earlier bus which had (natch!) never come. We weren't too worried but when the bus we'd been promised didn't arrive, and a third bus which museum staff was sure to come, also was no show, we began to wonder. In the end we had much help from the staff (getting ready to go home themselves) who called a taxi, asking for one big enough to transport 6. The return trip cost 25 euros, which we split six ways. Quite reasonable I thought since the taxi driver could have charged us a lot more, and we would have been glad to pay just to get back to town.
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