Some people have always been very envious of the traditional - very long - French lunch break. Luckily for them is is disappearing fast. Luckily for everybody else, some places like Le Laurier still celebrate it.
If you want to know what lunch was like before neo-capitalism brought the "sandwich at your computer screen" also to overseas France, cross the Boulevard du General de Gaulle - the "official" boundary of the Fort de France historic centre - and after 50 metres turn right into a very quiet side street. What you get is a relatively small restaurant in a traditional bistrot decor of small tables and mirrors (complete with some unobtrusive small screens running muted news channels).
At lunch time - and actually the place is not open in the evening or on weekends - all tables are packed with office-workers, but the very welcoming staff always makes an effort to find some space for a new customer.
What you eat is a traditional three-course lunch, of course preceded by an aperitif and accompanied by wine and evidently followed by coffee. The originality of Le Laurier is that it serves this traditional European French format with a Caribbean twist: the food is creole. Relatively simple dishes prepared from fresh produce (the things tourists always look for, but never find in their resort restaurants).
All this for a moderate price (there are different menu options) and the satisfaction of spending an hour and a half with people who, if the new economy had already triumphed completely, would now be in their office wolfing down some generic fast-food (without a punch as an aperitif).
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