You want to salute L'Entrepot. It does bravery in buckets. off-piste french wines and aperitifs that you'd only find in the backstreets of Carcassonne. Great service - welcoming to everyone: even over-50s wearing a tie in darkest Dalston. And knowledgeable staff who speak to everyone in the same tone of voice. Its a lovely space; modern edgy and relaxed all at the same time. So to the food, an ambitious list that reminds you why you like to eat out in the New East: but here my only criticism that the quality fell fractionally short of the ambition. But you've got to believe that most nights they get it right. No-one does a menu like this and then doesn't bother to try to deliver it. We will definitely be going back.
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