When it comes to Chinese food, I love it simple, and have spent many happy hours slurping away in Maxwell's food court in Singapore. But this was a delicious alternative experience. We took the 10-course tasting menu (GBP 45 each), which gave us access to a range of brilliant flavours and textures - and a couple of so-so experiences too. Highlight for me was the "63 degree tea egg with shredded filo and satay powder", which was delicate and mouthwatering - poached in warm green tea, apparently; the tangy "Xinjiang barbecued lamb with cumin and chilli served with pomegranate salad" and the totally awesome "Snow ball merengue, lychee granite, mango puree and lime sorbet". The dumplings were OK, but I've had far, far better in Singapore and Shanghai. Definitely disappointing was the "Poached Scottish razor clam with sea cucumber, pickled cucumber, vinegar tapioca and wind dried sausage", which tasted like....sausage. Bleah. Service was splendid. Our waitron brought each course with an explanation of what "Chef Andrew" (Wong, presumably) had done. We were warned the 10 courses would take 2.5 hours - and they did. Ambience is fine, but Wilton Street surroundings are uninteresting and slightly out of the way - it's worth the visit.
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