Adjacent to an out-of-town medical centre and alongside a housing estate is perhaps not the most likely location for a decent Thai restaurant, nor is the exterior of the building especially encouraging. Venture inside, however, and you'll find a cosy, well-appointed dining room, in which a friendly maitre d' and his welcoming staff serve reasonably authentic-tasting Thai food.
The talay tord starter was delicious: a generous serving of fresh fish and seafood in a beautifully light and crispy batter, accompanied by a piquant sweet chilli sauce. There was similar praise from the other side of the table for the tord mun kao pod (vegetarian deep-fried sweetcorn cakes).
On to the main course and the beef pad khing was pretty good, although the beef was maybe a little tough and could have benefitted from just a touch more flavour. The pad Thai was generously bejewelled with king prawns and topped with a delicate and lacey egg net.
Main course options for vegetarians were a little limited and this is largely due to the presence of shrimp in most Thai curry pastes. The house special vegan curry, however, didn't disappoint and the accompanying brown rice made for a substantial pairing.
If you have an appetite for a dessert then don’t skip the house ice cream. It’s not an exercise in technical brilliance (too many ice crystals and air pockets) but the flavours are great, especially the Thai whisky. Whilst we’re on the subject of drinks, if you’re a regular visitor to Thailand and feeling homesick, the warm familiar flavour of SamSong rum is there to see you through.
Some Thai restaurants undoubtedly offer greater sophistication and more precise technical execution but in this location and at this price point (£54 for two starters, two mains, a dessert and two drinks), it seems churlish to pick fault.
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