These are hard times for the restaurant-goer in Sheffield. The choice of good eateries has shrunk and too many diners seem willing to tolerate mediocrity.
So it's a big surprise to come across an unsung place, all the more so to find that the cause of good cooking is being championed by a chef who's tender in years but a star in the kitchen.
James Mellor is 25 but could easily pass for 18. But what he lacks in years he more than makes up for in what he puts on the table.
West 10 has not until now been known primarily for its restaurant. Mention the place to anyone who knows it and they'll probably tell you it's the hangout of the over-50s divorcee set on the pull. And it's true, the downstairs wine bar is funded by the grey pound. Go there most days of the week and it will be awash with marvels of cosmetic surgery, bad hair transplants and viagra-fuelled smooth talk.
If you can make it through to the stairs without being accosted, the small upstairs dining room with its even smaller kitchen awaits.
The menu choice is comprehensive, the theme of the food built around classic combinations cooked to perfection.
I greatly enjoyed a nutty, earthy mushroom tart with a chestnut puree while my other half was no less impressed by a smoked trout salad. Moules mariniere were faithful to the original and of excellent quality, while the whole plaice tasted delightfully fresh.
If anything desserts were even better - a French apple tart that would grace the window of a good Parisian patisserie and a darkly seductive chocolate roulade. Bill to include two glasses of Champagne (I omitted to ask what house it was from, but it was first rate) and a bottle of Sancerre, just over £100.
Young Mr Mellor is clearly going to be one of the stars of the future, but while he's here at West 10 he's quietly working wonders. We enjoyed it and will go again.
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