We were camping nearby at a place called Guignicourt and decided to take the train into Laon. Easy fast journey on the ever excellent SNCF.
On arrival at Laon followed the signs to "Cite Medeival". A long steep climb which could have been avoided had we found the funicular railway (more of this later).
The old city is very attractive and the Cathedral is a gem.
There are lots of small restaurants including the usual touristy places right outside the Cathedral though they are all reasonably priced.
The funicular track runs from just outside the main railway station. Exit the station and cross a paved area and bear to the left. The "poma" station is tucked round the corner and for a couple of Euros return you can save yourself a lot of effort. It takes about 5 mins and the terminus is right in the middle of the old city behind the Marie.
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