My wife and I loved this apartment. We stayed in one of the smaller units, but it was extremely comfortable. The bed was big and firm, and it’s set down a couple of steps from the rest of the apartment, which makes the bedroom feel secluded. The kitchen is very small, unfortunately, and if you’re thinking of doing much cooking, it’s not ideal. But we managed anyway for a couple of nights, and didn’t regret it, largely because there’s a fantastic Mercado in the central plaza, just a few minutes away. Excellent fish, among other things. We also made good use of the serene little patio off the courtyard for picnic lunches. Beware of the restaurants in central Cordoba: you’ll pay far too much money for fake salmorejo and canned vegetables (Taverna Salinas, just up the street, was particularly bad). If you want a great meal out, though, walk just a little ways past that central plaza to a place called Blanco Enea, where we had the very best meal of our entire month in Spain. The chef is absolutely fantastic—the meal we had was the equal of some of the most sophisticated dinners we’ve had in Manhattan, and yet it was amazingly inexpensive. (The arabol de chocolate was especially heavenly.) Back to the apt.: Manuel and his entire family (many of whom pitch in at reception) are exceptionally good hosts. They oriented us well and gave us great information about local festivals. Thanks to their advice, we saw truly amazing flamenco. The household staff were also extremely attentive to our every need. We had the sense that the family was relatively new to the business and that they’ve thrown themselves into it with both feet (or, should I say, with all their feet?). No sense of management burnout whatsoever—they’re devoted to making your experience an enjoyable one. Manuel is the real star: he’s gentle but funny and very tuned in to what his guests want. Finally, the location is perfect: you’re just outside the heavily touristed center of the city, but it’s only a 10-15 minute walk to the Mezquita, Alcazar, Roman bridge, etc. I can’t recommend this apartment highly enough.
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