Like with Santa Maria, when I arrived here I found a group inside with a guide telling them about it, so I just squeezed in with them and looked around and listened. No-one seemed to object, and I got the impression that it was normal. I never saw a visitor centre so i never bought a ticket. If I should have, and the people in the visitor centre see this, please send me a message.
(The guide spoke Spanish, but it wasn't too difficult. I don't know if there are tours in other languages. The tourist office should be able to say - Tel +34 902300202.)
The decorations are very interesting - patterns, strange animals and plants, human figures, frescoes and sculptures, the gallery, Roman echoes, Byzantine echoes, and the windows (maybe not quite the right word - I don't know if they were ever meant to hold glass) -, but the famous one-piece stone lattice window on the south wall, which I'd particularly hoped to see, was visible only through a sort of dark protective screen. I don't know if this is a permanent arrangement.
It would be a pity to see San Miguel without also seeing Santa Maria, only a few hundred yards away down the hill, and also if possible the absolutely excellent archaeological museum in Oviedo, just behind the Cathedral, which has quite a lot on the culture of ancient Asturias - a culture to which this building and its mysterious aesthetic give us a direct insight.
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