We love flea / antique markets, and having visited Turin, Athens, Hong Kong, Paris markets, I can say El Rastro is up there with the top.
Beware that the market is split into areas, so if you only visit the main drag you will only see the clothes section. My fav was the antique part, which is left off the main drag as you go down the hill. Some of the stuff shown are 100s of years old others are 10s of years, there is a real mix of trash and treasure, very interesting way to spend the day and money, and getting a unique souvenir from Madrid.
The market is still setting up at 10am, but it also means you miss most of the crowds, we got there at 10.30am when most of the stall were setup, the street were nearly empty, by 11.30am, the streets were pack, so go early if you want to miss the crowds.
We took the metro to La Latina, then it was a 1 min walk to the edge of the market.
There are many cafes, but most are the standup type, we could not find a public toilet, but as I mentioned lots of cafe to visit and use their toilets.
If you like markets this is for you if not then I would give it a miss.
What out for the pick pockets.
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