In mid September, 2013, we stayed almost a week at the B and B Maria Mare operated by Maria and Enzo. The B and B is a very large apartment located up two flights of stairs in the old part of Naples. The side street it is on runs into a street that comprises an old and busy market area of Naples. The street also runs off the main commercial street and is close to the new metro with stations decorated by artists from around the world, the Piazza Dante, Piazza Bellini, the Archeological Museum and sites of the Centro Storico. Although Naples has a lot of traffic and can be noisy, the B and B is quiet.
We pre-arranged the cost of our cab from the airport within the price range suggested by Maria. Although our young cab driver had trouble finding the place, he did not try to charge us extra. (The B and B is around the corner from a church with the same name as the street the B and B is on and from the wonderful Gelateria Paradiso.) When our driver let us off, we saw Enzo on the street outside the B and B waving to welcome us.
Enzo is a retired university professor and his wife, Maria is a retired bank employee. They live around the corner from the B and B and at least one of them or their son, Giovanni came every morning to make breakfast. They are very knowledgeable about their city and made valuable suggestions for our stay in Naples. The B and B has a good selection of guide books and maps for the use of the guests.
Our room was quiet and separate from other rooms. It was not fancy but it was comfortable and had everything we needed: ensuite bathroom and lots of closet space. We had a traditional two door window with Juliette balcony. We had access to the rest of the B and B including the kitchen, dining room and living room and we could have brought in our dinner and eaten it there, if we had chosen to do that. We could help ourselves to tea or coffee at any time we were there.
Enzo and Maria made our visit to Naples more than just a tourist visit to the sites but a real taste of the way that Neapolitans live. We looked forward to their company at breakfast every morning and to the wonderful and generous food (juice, prosciutto, two or three kinds of cheeses, bread, Maria’s own home made marmelada and pastry and also locally bought traditional Neapolitan pastries including my favourite, sfogiatella.) They made us as much espresso as we could drink (with hot milk the way we like it).
We will especially remember our conversations with Enzo and Maria and their son, Giovanni (also a university professor) regarding Naples, Italy, politics, history and life in general. It was a treat for us to be the guests of this charming couple and to see how a family in Naples lives in the Centro Storico.
- Official Description (provided by the hotel):
- B and B “Maria Marì” is located in the heart of Naples, very close (20 meters) to the central “via Toledo”, historical street, cross-roads of the most important artistic itineraries , just a short walking distance from underground railway, funiculars and tourist harbour. It has 3 double rooms, easily adaptable, newly and tastefully furnished, of 3 different colours , all provided with private bath with shower and independent air conditioner.Breakfast is served by the house-owner in a large and pleasant living-room with the typical warmth of Neapolitan people and it includes home-made traditional sweets.TV, computer with internet connection and books on History and Art of Naples are at guests disposal in the living-room.Guided tours of Naples, Pompei and other sites are provided if booked in advance. ... more less
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