Tucked away in a small side street in the Roman Ghetto, just behind the lovely fountain with turtles on piazza Mattei, this is a great place to treat your sightseeing-wearied body to if it's complaining: you'll be walking on air when you come out.
It's a "real" hammam in that they use black soap and different temperature rooms and scrub you before sending you into the cold pool, but somehow it's also very Italian, probably because most of the stylish customers are, as well as the staff (don't worry, they'll be very gentle and patient if you don't speak the language, but they don't have much English).
The first time you go you have to buy their slippers and scrubbing mitt kit for EUR10: these are yours to keep and reuse on your next visit, or elsewhere.
You pay first, and leave your ID in exchange for a towel, locker key and padlock. The women's changing room is small and it can get crowded, better visit in the afternoon if you can.
On "women only" days nudity is fine (Wednesdays and Fridays), on mixed days bathing suits must be worn.
The place is spotlessly clean and whilst sometimes the piped music gets on my nerves (personal pet hates), the atmosphere is generally very relaxing and friendly.
The stone benches are hard (good for the back) and the scrubbing is fierce, but you come out with soft skin and relaxed limbs.
Various body and face treatments are on offer, which are carried out in the tepidarium (warm room) in full view of everyone, so not for the shy and retiring!
There's also a number of massages available, and these are done in private rooms. My favourite is the oil of Argan body and face massage, 50 mns of bliss that undo all the knots and leave the skin velvet smooth.
Check their web site for special offers, some are very good value e.g. 4 hammam sessions at 50% discount, valid three months. I let mine lapse due to work pressure and sheer absentmindedness, and they gave me a refund for the 3 unused sessions! Fantastic customer service or what?
Make sure you book even if you only want to use the hammam, they get very busy and control the numbers both for our enjoyment and for safety reasons.
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