This is a 'must see' in Rome and every guidebook will point you there. Lots and lots to see - every chapel has something worthy of note and - unlike some churches where there's a smash and grab to see the one famous painting and leave - I found that I lingered a good while here enjoying the chapels one at a time.
Over and above the art, do spend some time appreciating the bones, skulls and generally direct reminders of mortality.
Effigies in the floor have 3D brass bones and skulls; grim reaper mosaics; a caged skeleton in the wall to the left as you enter... This really is the most boned/skulled/skeletonised church I've come across. This iconography of mortality finds a counterpoint in the many butterflies and moths to be seen in the art - a different reminder of the fleeting transience of life...
Just as well, then, that after a visit you return to the explosive hubbub of Piazza del Popolo to be firmly amongst the living!
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