Tucked away off Montenapoleone opposite Dior and Burberry is a packed little gastronomic powerhouse of a courtyard replete with awning, heaters and a buzz of unmistakable movers and shakers - in the kitchen and at the tables. You don't want to miss this place, only open for lunch, on any trip to Milan even if you've left your cashmere and Gucci at home. If you don't smoke, ask for a table inside. What they do with pasta is unlike anywhere else in Milan. As I had to pick one sort of place, I checked it for business, but it would also be good for couples, friends and a solo travelling. A chic Roman feeling in northern Italy.
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