Once you get over the sombre lighting of the room in the 'salotto gourmet', it's a feast. The seats are very comfortable, the tables wide and very well spaced. It is indeed a 'salotto'.
Even before you choose, you are treated to a dizzying selection of amuse bouches that span an incredible range of flavours, textures and produce.
So many dishes a la carte are attractive that one needs three visits to get a complete picture!
At the two extremes, we had an ethereal ziti pasta with capelonghe (razor clams), which was stunningly clean and clear in flavour and presentation, and a powerful, earthy main of hare that was prepared in a way we'd never seen before (I won't spoil the suprise) and yet was firmly rooted in classical French cuisine.
The service, formal but not too much, strikes all the right keys.
We were loyal long-term customers and admirers of the previous chef of the Locanda (Walter Miori) and to be frank we were initially very suspicious when the current chef (Alfio Ghezzi) took over...But his cuisine has completely convinced us: there is a real depth of culinary culture in his dishes, a deep respect for local tradition and for classical techniques combined with a mastery of all modern techniques and a creativity that is sometimes breathtaking.
If there is a restaurant that could be the first to obtain two Michelin stars in Trento, this is it, so superior it is to its starred local competitors, and so comparable in quality to other two-starred places we've visited.
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