We took a half day morning tour with the lovely Florinda from Excursions Etna. Extremely well organised, and perfectly timed to avoid the large groups arriving by coach. We were blessed with clear blue skies, and fantastic views. And what Florinda doesn't know about Etna, isn't worth knowing.
We were staying in Palermo, so we got the train down to Catania and picked up the tour from there. The train was cheap, easy and on time (a refreshing change if you're from the UK!). This is a must see for your trip to Sicily.
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