I Sapori del Mare is a rare find: a tiny, unassuming restaurant, run by the kindest of people, serving the best and freshest seafood imaginable (at anachronistically low prices, too). Shortly after we were seated, the owner invited us on an "itinerario gastronomico", to which we happily obliged. The journey kicked off with a caravan of antipasti - marinated anchovies with olives, crispy fried sardines, octopus salad, oysters, marinated red prawns (gamberi rossi) on lettuce, carpaccio of red tuna - all prepared with great attention to taste, texture and detail (even the delicious olive oil is of their own making). This was followed by a deceptively simple, yet stunning dish of homemade pasta with tomato, mint and flakes of raw sword fish, topped with chopped pistachios and fried slivers of aubergine for added texture. The main course was fritto misto in two acts, first squid, then a variety of tiny whole fish (we were able to identify red mullet, gurnard, sea bass and bream), all fried to perfection, i.e. crispy without a trace of greasiness and with just the right amount of seasoning. An unspectacular but very satisfactory ricotta fritter completed a meal that set us back 30 euro per person, bread, mineral water, wine and coffee included. To put this into perspective, in my hometown of Amsterdam (NL) this amount wouldn't even buy the ingredients to a single "itinerario". As far as I'm concerned, seafood doesn't get any better than this.