There are any number of restaurants to choose from at Rua dos Correeiros, downtown Lisbon (Baixa). But once again quantity doesn't mean quality: most are just tourist traps, with waiters approaching passers-by up the limits of one's patience, in order to win them over (usually for a mediocre meal). Not João do Grão. Founded over a hundred years ago, the place aged beautifully and has stayed true to itself without compromising to the tourist trade. I strongly recommend "Bacalhau cozido com grãos" (codfish with chickpea), "Iscas com elas" (pig's liver served with boiled potatoes - the "elas") and "Cozido à Portuguesa". Try the house red: simple, good and very, very affordable, like a Portuguese wine should be.