Navigating the Alfama can be tricky in daytime, much less evening. The taxi driver dropped us several hundred meters from out destination, pointing us up a narrow alley. We quickly felt lost and had to ask for directions several times (I had the address written on a slip of paper). Finally, a local led us to the door. It is a tiny restaurant - seating maybe 40 people on bench seats I was glad we had a reservation.. The hostess spoke English and settled us quickly with glasses of white port.. The couvert items were very tasty, especially the bean and tuna mixture. The main course was not so good but desserts were excellent. Wine was also very good. But the real reason to venture into the Alfama at night was the fado. From the outset, it seemed very much a family affair. The guitarists were excellent. The two fado singers who alternated were also very good. Several times, all the staff, including the cooks, joined into the chorus.
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