Certainly the most ambitious food I ate in Athens, and one meal there must rank among my best ever. This was dinner, after a chance lunch that highlighted a number of the restaurant’s characteristics: a risotto with the best grilled shrimp for years, a waiter who apparently didn’t notice that he’d dropped a dirty knife on me and a waitress who, trying to help, mopped away with a black paper napkin, leaving a different stain on my light coloured shorts. But the food was good enough for me to go back for dinner: carpaccio of squid, followed by peppered tuna steak, both absolutely outstanding, followed by a wonderfully light rum baba. The kir wasn’t great, but the recommended white (a sauvignon blanc blend) was excellent.
I later went back with colleagues for an equally good meal – I particularly remember the sea bass – though I can’t recommend the champagne cocktail, topped I think with egg white.
Downsides: at lunch, particularly irritating musak, and continuing “technical problems” with card acceptance. Poorly organised (but very pleasant) wait staff, which at my first dinner resulted in the starter arriving at the same time as the bread and olives. The power was off for most of the evening, which may not have helped, though mercifully it did rule out the musak. And it’s not cheap: €270 for three, with only one modest bottle of wine.
But, if I’m in Athens again, I’ll be back.
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