Café Zartl is so far off the beaten path that I can’t quite understand how we even discovered it. Tucked away in the Third District near the Donau Canal, Zartl is well maintained, but has the appearance of being unchanged for decades -- lots of decades. It is a magnificent example of a classic Viennese coffee house. In the years after WWI, Zartl was a hangout for writers, including Robert Musil (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caf%C3%A9_Zartl).
Their menu extends well beyond afternoon pastry fare. Winter evening visits are perfect for a plate of Wiener Schnitzel or Goulash. A grand piano in the main room provides late-afternoon entertainment as guests, which I assume to be from the neighborhood, quietly read the house newspapers or magazines – all in German – and enjoy the wines and beers of Austria or an excellent coffee drink.
Zartl can be visited conveniently via the 1 Tram at the Rasumofskygasse stop from either Schwedenplatz or the Prater. For those visiting Rochusmarkt, Zartl is a short ride on the 4A bus from Rochusgasse, or a four-block walk toward the Donaukanal from Landstrasser Hauptstrasse along Kundmanngasse (left on Marxergasse).
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