My pal and I gasped when the bill for dinner arrived. We'd had a large plate of starters that included onion bhajee and chicken tandoori, a variety of excellent curries from the buffet, a dessert, a couple of cokes and some lassi. The total for two people: £16.60. If there's a better bargain in Yorkshire, I'd like to find it. But there are other reasons why this smart restaurant is worth seeking out. The Punjabi food is unlike any other in town. On the a la carte, for example, can be found Lahori Maghaz Masala, which brings lamb brains boiled in turmeric water, fried in butter with green chillies, ginger and tomatoes, and Balochi Dumba - 'lamb joints cooked in red gravy with traditional Punjabi spices, fried in ghee'.
The menu does not play the usual tiresome variations on lamb, chicken, prawns but echoes a domestic style of cooking whose spicing is unusually subtle. The evening buffet included a brilliant vegetable masala, some first-rate chicken, outstanding perfumed lamb and dhal with enough garlic to ward off whole squadrons of vampires. The restaurant was built by Mohammad Akram whose genial front-of-house presence is another reason to visit. Everything here, from the cutlery and crockery to the welcome and service is thoughtful. Alcohol is not permitted in the restaurant but with food of this character, who cares? What a find.
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