In the old part of Varese is the new Qui in Centro, which is stylishly furnished and not at all formal. One enters Qui in Centro via the adjacent panetteria, Colombo e Marzoli, at Piazza Giovine 3, but I didn’t see a sign for Qui in Centro. I suppose passing by the pastries and bread on the way in and out reminds you to pick up some just to take home. We went for lunch, and we found mostly traditional dishes served exactly right, e.g., vitello tonnato. While the meals were ample, most dishes tended toward those deemed healthful, i.e., plentiful salads with or without meat, fish, cheese. The service was friendly and excellent, although the restaurant was either full or a table short of full for our entire meal duration. A few of the tables had been reserved, but most people – including us – did not reserve, and a maximum 10-minute wait was necessary. It appeared that all diners were locals, many of whom had eaten there previously. The full house testifies to the fair prices charged for quality meals and service.
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