Pension Umoljani is located just above the Umoljani village located on the slopes of Olympic mountain of Bjelasnica. From Sarajevo it takes you an hour drive (some 45 km). The road is very good and for those enjoying driving through the mountain landscapes it will be a joyful experience. Don’t rely on GPS navigation, my iGo with 3rd quarter of 2012 maps gave me a wrong direction in one occasion and eventually run off the road even before I reached village of Šabići. It is easy to find a way to Umoljani village: 1. Drive to Bjelasnica, pass by the hotels (Han, Marsal) and continue the road towards village of Šabići, 2. When in front of Šabići village take a right turn and continue for 4-5 km, 3. Watch for the sign Umoljani, turn right towards Umoljani and drive for another 4 km. You’ll enter the village, pass by the old mosque and continue until you see the Pension.
About the restaurant: Excellent location just above the village, terrace in shade is a perfect place to rest and enjoy food during the hot summer days. The food was absolutely marvels. I’m talking about real homemade Bosnian food: the pies, kebab, klepe all made of local, organically grown/produced ingredients. You can order a food for a specific time, take a walk on the mountain tracks or drive a bike or whatever, and the food will be prepared exactly in time you said. We ate cheese pie and meat pie served in a pan in which they were baked. Cheese pie was better than any I ate in Sarajevo, you can tell the difference when local produced cheese and cream is used. The size of the pie pan is for two persons, so it’s really cheap: the cheese pie (for two persons) was 4,50 € and the meat pie (also the size for two persons) 6,50 €. Meat pie was also delicious. Homemade yoghurt will cost you 0,75€ and the salad produced of organically grown tomato, cucumber and cabbage costs just 1 €. Traditional Bosnian coffee is 0,50 € and homemade elderberry juice 1 €. We had an excellent meal for three of us for just 16€. We couldn’t eat all of it but the kind owner’s wife wrap us the leftover.
This Pension also rent rooms but I haven’t seen them so this review is about the restaurant only. The price for B&B is 13 €/per person. From what I’ve seen, the bed is 10€ and the breakfast consisting of Bosnian round dough (“ushtiptzi” – 9 pieces) and a large plate of cheese and cream, which is also on the menu, costs 3 €.
All in all, if you have a time for a day picnic on the mountain and you have a transport, go to Bjelasnica and village Umoljani and you won’t be disappointed.
P.S. I asked the owner where to buy elderberry juice syrup, which I've tried in the restaurant, and he directed me to the one villager’s house who sell 2 liters bottle for 5 €. He also has organic egg production and sells cheese and other milk products. I’ve just bought syrup and eggs, both of excellent quality.
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